Занятие 6

Раздел 5

Ткани и их использование

Тема 5.2

Волокна и нити

5.2.4.Шелк

Образовательная цель

Использование выражения «used to»

Развивающая цель

Изучение и использование лексики по теме «Шелк»

Воспитательная цель

Осознание необходимости изучения профессиональной лексики для дальнейшей успешной работы по специальности

Порядок выполнения заданий

1. Повторение правил использования выражения «used to»

2. Изучение слов из словаря терминов

3. Использование слов из словаря терминов при выполнении проверочных упражнений (А.1. – А.3.)

4. Выполнение упражнений типа В.1. для контроля понимания текста

5. Выполнение задания для самостоятельной работы (С.1.)

А.1. Прочитать и перевести тексты. Пополнить словарь терминов

SILK

Silk is a fibre traditionally associated with rank or wealth because it has always been expensive.

Silk is the only natural filament used for textile purposes and it is produced by the silk worm, the caterpillar of a moth, in the form of two very fine filaments coated with gum. With this twin filament the caterpillar produces a protective casing known as a cocoon around itself before the chrysalis stage of its life.

Inside this casing it would normally change into a moth and emerge when the change had been completed. Silk filaments are obtained by unwinding the cocoons in the resultant fine thread.

Silk is a strong fibre, having slightly less strength than cotton. It is, in addition, an elastic and resilient fibre similar to wool but not quite as good. This combination of strength and elasticity was unique in textile fibres until certain man-made fibres were developed.

This combination of properties, together with fineness, high lustre, softness and superb drape enables silk to be converted into many beautiful types of fabrics, varying from delicate chiffons to beautiful heavy brocades. The fineness, regularity, strength and elasticity of silk make it suitable for fine screens for printing and sifting purposes and parachute fabrics. Difficulties in production and processing have always meant high costs and limited production, so that it is understandable that for centuries Man dreamed of producing "artificial silk" in order to be able to produce large quantities of this expensive fibre easily and cheaply. It was the partial realisation of this dream which led to the foundation of the man-made fibres industry.

Weighted and Pure Silk. Sometimes when yarns are prepared for weaving the skeins (моток) of yarns are boiled in a soap solution to remove the natural silk gum or sericin. The silk may lose 20 to 30 percent of its original weight as a result of boiling. Since silk has a great affinity for metallic salts, such as tin and iron, the lost weight used to be replaced through the absorption of metals.

BUYING POINTS OF SILK FABRICS

1. No fabric is so luxurious in appearance as silk. It has a natural deep lustre that makes it an aristocrat among textiles.

A silk dress, whether it is a shantung for sport or an organza for evening, looks dressy. Similarly, silk draperies are more luxurious than the average cotton, linen, or wool. Cotton draperies are particularly suited to informal rooms, whereas silks in varied textures are appropriate in any room except possibly the kitchen and the bathroom.

Since silk fibre has a good affinity for dye, the colours found in silks are innumerable.

2. Silk is the strongest natural fibre. Thus, silk fabrics can be made durable. If silks are pure and unweighted, they will last for years.

3. Silk, like other animals fibres, is warmer than rayon, cotton, or linen of comparable weights. Because silk is very absorptive, silk fabrics, when they become drenched with perspiration, do not feel so damp and clammy as do fabrics made entirely of hydrophobic fibres. Hence, underwear and blouses are appropriately made of silk.

Silks can be woven of very fine yarns in open weaves, a fact that makes silk fabrics feel cool in summer. Organza, georgette, net, and chiffon are illustrations of sheer silk fabrics. Silk is lightweight.

Because of its elasticity, silk can be made up into accordion pleats that hold creases.

Silk mixes easily with rayon, adding the elasticity that rayon lacks. It also mixes with nylon and with acrylic in shantung.

4. The purposes for which silks are intended determine in a large measure the methods used in their manufacture. Silk thread comes in more than three hundred colors, so that fabrics can be matched easily. For sewing lustrous fabrics, silk thread should be chosen to match the lustre of the fabric. All-silk or all-wool materials should be sewn with silk thread because silk and wool are animal fibres and so react similarly to laundering or dry cleaning. Spun silk is suitable for knit goods, such as sweaters, hosiery, and underwear; for embroidery silk, braids, bindings, laces, and crepes; and for the pile of plushes, velvets, and velours.

Silk fabrics lend themselves to any style changes that may occur. At one time the mode for evening dresses may demand a firm fabric that can be tailored easily. In another season, evening dresses may be fluffy, ruffly creations. Silk faille, broadcloth, and shantung will suit the tailored mode, for these fabrics are dull, stongly constructed materials of plain weave. Chiffon and marquisette give the soft, fluffy, feminine effect.

Silk has a wide variety of uses, especially in the apparel, drapery, and upholstery fields. There is not an hour of the day when a sulk dress is not appropriate. A blended fabric, if predominantly silk, must be handled as carefully as a pure silk.

Словарь терминов к занятию 6

drench v-пропитывать влагой, промачивать; hydrophobic а - водоотталкивающий;

occur v-случаться, происходить, иметь место

organza n - плательная прозрачная жесткая ткань «органза» (шелковая или вискозная);

shantung n - чесуча (ткань);

А.2. Прочитать текст, дополнить словарь терминов определениями видов ткани

WOOL AND SILK

Boucle. A rough, looped wool fabric with a textured, knobbled surface that is usually dull unless a shiny synthetic fibre is added.

Cashmere. A soft, luxurious fibre from the underhair of the cashmere goat, which is made into an attractive fabric. Cashmere fabric is not hard wearing.

Crepe. A fabric with a nubby, crinkly surface made from wool, silk or synthetic fibres.

Flannel. A plain or twill-weave fabric of medium-weight with a napped finish, usually made of wool or cotton.

Herringbone. A twill-weave woollen fabric in which the warp and weft yarn interlace to produce a pattern resembling the backbone of the herring fish.

Mohair. Fibre from the angora goat which is lustrous, smooth and hard wearing. Mohair fibre is often blended with wool and other fibres and the fabric is used to make garments and home furnishings.

Satin. One of the basic weave of silk fabrics. Silk satin is expensive so the fabric is now imitated by various synthetic fibres.

Serge. A durable fabric with a close, twill weave. At one time serge was always made of worsted wool, but now is made in a variety of synthetic fibres as well.

Shantung. A fabric originally made from silk, but now also in cotton and synthetic fibres. The yarn is slubbed and irregular giving a nubby texture.

Tweed. A hard wearing, woven fabric characterized by coloured slubs of yarn on a hairy surface. Tweed may be made of any fibre combination, although wool tweed is probably the most common.

В.1. Ответить на вопросы

1. How do worsteds differ from woolens?

2. a) What are the chief characteristics of worsteds? b) What are the chief characteristics of woolens?

3. a) Name a few fabrics made of woolen yarn, b) Name a few fabrics made of worsted yarn.

4. Why are wool fabrics comfortable?

5. What are the chief characteristics of silk?

6. Why are natural silk fabrics so expensive?

7. What does weighted silk imply?

А.3. Соотнести слова из правой и левой колонки таблицы

1. cocoon (n)	a) a cover that the young of some insects such as butterflies and moths make when they start changing to their adult form
2. crop (n)	b) to separate fibres from each other so you have one strand or thread
3. dye (v)	c) to try to find something that you really want
4. flourish (v)	d) to grow or be very successful
5. fur (n)	e) to twist fibres of a material such as cotton into a thread
6. hide (n)	f) a plant grown, usually for food, on a farm
7. irrigation (n)	g) as much as is needed / enough
8. putrefy (v)	h) the process by which enough water is brought to a piece of land through a series of pipes to help crops grow
9. raw (adj)	j) the soft hair that covers the bodies of some animals
10. scarce (adj)	k) made from artificial materials or substances, not natural ones
11. sought (v) [past tense]	l) the skin of an animal such as a cow which is used for making leather
12. spin (v)	m) something which has not been cooked
13. sufficient (adj)	n) to decay or become rotten
14. synthetic (adj)	o) to change the colour of something such as material by using a substance
15. unravel (v)	i) not very much of something / rare

С.1. Прочитать краткие характеристики различных тканей и заполнить таблицу

Silk

There is an interesting legend surrounding silk. According to the legend a Chinese

princess, Xi Ling-Shi, was sitting under a tree when a cocoon dropped into the cup of tea she was drinking. The silk unravelled in the tea and silk was discovered. The Chinese tried to keep the mysteries of silk production secret and the fabric was so sought after that trade between Europe and China flourished along the Silk Road.

The silk worm is an amazing creature. It feeds on the leaves of the mulberry bush before spinning a cocoon made out of silk. Each cocoon can produce up to about 1,000 metres of silk filaments. Two or three of these are spun together to create the thread or yarn which can then be woven. Lately animal rights activitists have criticised silk production as the process of harvesting kills the silk worm.

AC Cotton

Cotton is a fibre that grows around the seed of the cotton plant. It has been used for thousands of years, but it was the inventions during the Industrial Revolution in the 18^th century, including Eli Whitney’s cotton gin in 1793, which led to mass cotton production. Cotton is a very thirsty crop, requiring quite a lot of water. So, unless there is sufficient rain, the only alternative is irrigation. Water resources are becoming scarcer so this is a threat to the production of cotton. In other respects the production of cotton is very efficient as only about 10% of the weight is lost in the process. To begin with the cotton bolls are harvested. Once collected the cotton needs to be separated from the seed. This can be done by hand or by using a cotton gin. Once separated the cotton is spun into threads which can then be woven.

Wool

Wool is a fibre that comes from the fur of animals. The most common animals used are sheep, but some of the most expensive wools come from other animals such as rabbits (Angora), goats (Cashmere) and Alpaca. Wool has been used for thousands of years to make clothes and is still important in textiles although its use has fallen with the increased use of synthetic fibres. Currently 25 per cent of all our wool comes from Australia while it is the biggest export from New Zealand. The process of getting wool is very easy. The sheep are sheared and then the fleece is cleaned to remove grease and dirt. This can be done by washing it in warm water, or by using special detergents to clean it. The wool is then sorted depending on its quality, before being spun into thread which can be used to knit clothes

Leather

Unlike many other natural materials used in clothing, leather is essentially a by-product. In other words, leather is produced from the animal skins which are thrown away after an animal has been killed for its meat. Today most leather is made from the skins of cattle (cows etc), although it is possible to make it from other types of animal as well. There are three main stages to turning the hides into leather. The first stage is cleaning, removing the hair and raw meat from the skins. After this they are tanned. This is an important stage as it is at this point that the raw-hides are turned into a material that won’t putrefy and will become soft and flexible. The final stage is known as crusting and includes dyeing, splitting and stripping the leather. In many cases the leather is also ‘finished’ so that it looks nice or becomes waterproof.

Match the words in the left-hand column to the definitions in the right-hand

column. Use the texts to help you.

	Cotton	Silk	Wool	Leather
1. Is a natural material
2. Comes from animals
3. Needs water
4. Is easy to produce
5. Can be woven/turned into thread
6. Is a by-product of another process
7. Was the centre of trade
8. Comes from different animals