Занятие 4

Раздел 5

Ткани и их использование

Тема 5.2

Волокна и нити

5.2.2. Лен

Образовательная цель

Повторение правил образования и структуры вопросительных распространенных предложений с глаголом действия

Развивающая цель

Изучение и использование лексики по теме «Лен»

Воспитательная цель

Осознание необходимости изучения профессиональной лексики для дальнейшей успешной работы по специальности

Порядок выполнения заданий

1. Повторение правил образования и использования и структуры вопросительных распространенных предложений с глаголом действия

2. Изучение слов из словаря терминов

3. Использование слов из словаря терминов при выполнении проверочных упражнений (А.1. – А.3.)

4. Выполнение упражнений типа «В» для контроля понимания текста

5. Выполнение задания для самостоятельной работы (А.4.)

С.1. Прочитать тексты и составить таблицу сравнения потребительских свойства хлопка и льна

BUYING POINTS OF COTTON FABRICS

1. Cotton conducts moisture away from the body and allows the cooler temperatures outside to reach the body, so it is a cool material for summer or tropical wear. But, since short cotton fibres nap easily, cotton fabrics can also be made warm when necessary. Knitted cotton underwear absorbs perspiration and keeps the wearer comfortable.

2. Durability refers to the length of time that a fabric will wear. Workmanship indicates the skill and care that is given to a fabric when it is manufactured. Cotton fibres are comparatively short; therefore, they can produce a yarn that is fairly weak in tensile strength. However, a cotton fibre, because of its natural twist, spins so well that it can be twisted very tightly; hence, since tightly twisted yarns are more durable than those that are slackly twisted, cotton yarns are strong and fabrics made from them are durable. Cotton yarns can be given considerable tensile strength, and the cloth made from these yarns can be durable. It is the quality of the yarn, of course, to weave and finish that primarily determines the durability of the cloth.

3. Cotton can be pressed with a hot iron; its scorching point is high. Since cotton fibre is fairly inelastic, most cotton fabrics wrinkle easily and, hence, unless they are finished for crease resistance, need frequent pressing.

4. An innovation in fabric finishing provided durable-press cotton clothing. The resin finish, called Koratron, imparts permanent crease and shape to a garment. Fabrics so finished are wrinkle- and crease- resistant and should not require ironing. The shape of the garment is retained permanently.

5. One of the chief objections to cotton was its shrinkage. A generation ago, consumers allowed a whole size for shrinkage of a shirt after laundering. Shrinkage-control treatments can now be applied to cottons so that not more than 1 percent residual shrinkage remains to be taken into account.

6. This characteristic is related to how the cotton fabric feels next to the skin. Cotton fibres feel cool, smooth, and soft. When cotton is processed into fabric, it depends from the type of yarns, construction, and finish applied.

7. Cotton can serve for food (cottonseed products), for clothing, and for shelter. Cotton clothing can be worn around the clock. A single cotton fabric, pique, can be used for a house dress, a sports dress, a summer business dress, a bathing suit, or a beach bag. It is particularly adapted to children's dresses. Cotton is appropriate for wearing apparel, home furnishings, industrial uses, and military supplies.

8. The improvements in finishes have given newer and better uses to cotton. Other than the basic finishes, there are treatments for resistance to stains, water, flame, rot; also functional finishes for permanent stiffness, create resistance, crease retention, wash-and-wear, durable press.

BUYING POINTS OF LINEN FABRICS

In aiding the customer to buy linen, the salesperson should stress the following features, in addition to its coolness for summer wear.

Durability and workmanship. The durability of the cloth depends on the fibres and yarns of which it is made. Care in growth, harvesting, and dressing of flax affects the quality of the fibre. If flax is allowed to overripen, the fibre becomes too brittle to make good cloth. If fibres are overretted, they become too tender. If care is not taken in scutching and combing good-quality fibres may be broken or wasted. Consequently, the durability of linen cloth depends upon the degree of skilled workmanship. Since the linen fibre is longer and stronger than cotton of the same diameter, linen should be more durable than cotton, considering fibres alone. Linens and cottons are stronger when wet than when dry, so that washing does not weaken them. Weaving them together creates a durable fabric.

Absorbency. Linen is absorbent because the flax fibre is hollow through the centre, like bamboo. Since linen dish towels will dry more dishes than cotton before feeling damp, fewer dish towels are required. Also, the absorptive nature of linen yarns contributes to sound deadening. This feature partially explains the increased use of linen for wall coverings.

Ease in care. Because flax fibre is inelastic, linen fabric require frequent pressing to remove wrinkles, unless the fabric has been treated for crease resistance. It is best to sprinkle the fabric and to iron it while damp. Linen does not get soiled as quickly as cotton because the fibres are longer, harder, and smoother. Hot water and soap will not injure the fibre, but care should be taken not to starch linens heavily (especially damasks), for there is danger of breaking the fibres under a heavy iron.

Washability of linen is a strong buying motive for any consumer. Household linen, handkerchiefs, and linen apparel (but be sure to check the label, since many articles require dry cleaning) all wash easily week after week, year after year, and get softer with use.

Generally speaking, dry cleaning is the recommended method for drapery and upholstery linens. Decorative linens should not be washed, unless labeled washable and preshrunk.

В.1. Письменно ответить на вопросы

1. 1. In what countries is cotton grown?

2. Define mercerization, combing, spinning.

3. Describe the process of making cotton yarn.

4. What is meant by versatility? Illustrate the versatility of cotton.

5. What qualities in the cotton fibres and yarns make cotton fabrics durable?

6. Forecast and defend the use of cotton in consumer goods.

7. What are the main physical and chemical characteristics of flax fibres?

8. Compare each of the characteristics just listed with the corresponding characteristics of cotton.

9. How are linen yarns made?

10. Why do consumers buy linen fabrics?

11. Why is linen suitable for dish towels?

12. Do you wear linen dresses in summer?

Словарь терминов к занятию 4

bedlinen n постельное белье;

brocade п парча;

corduroy n вельвет, рубчатый плис

curtain n занавеска

detachable collar съемный воротник

flat a 1. ровный, гладкий, плоский; 2. блеклый, тусклый (о цвете);

floral а цветочный рисунок (ткани);

interfacing n подбор, прокладка;

infant wear детская одежда (для детей младшего возраста);

lingerie n дамское белье (полотняное или шелковое);

napkin п салфетка, пеленка, подгузник;

А.1. Задание для самостоятельной работы – прочесть текст, дополнить словарь терминов

COTTON AND LINEN

Batiste. A soft, sheer, lightweight fabric named after the French weaver, Jean Batiste. Cotton, linen, or a mix of the two, batiste may be used for summer dresses and shirts, infant wear and lingerie.

Brocade. A fabric with areas of different weaves which create a raised pattern. Brocade can be cotton, synthetic, silk, or a blend.

Canvas. This term applies to several different fabrics, including cotton, linen and synthetics. Canvas with a heavy, close weave is used for upholstery, making sails, awnings (навес, тент), tents and for industrial purposes. This term includes a linen fabric used as an interfacing in hand tailoring.

Chintz. A glazed, medium-weight cotton fabric used for home furnishings. Chintz is traditionally printed with a pattern of flowers and birds.

Corduroy. A corded fabric in which the rib has been sheared after it is woven to produce a smooth, velvet-like nap. Traditionally made of cotton, сorduroy can also be made from a cotton and synthetic blend which is crease resistant.

Damask. Similar to brocade, damask has a flatter finish with a pattern produced by the contrast of areas of satin weave against a plain background. It is a popular fabric for tablecloths and napkins and can be made from cotton or linen.

Muslin. A plain-weave fabric usually woven from cotton or cotton blends. Muslin is made in a variety of weights, ranging form a sheer quality for light garments to a heavier fabric suitable for bed-linen.

Pique. A fabric woven with small, raised ribs or geometric patterns which is usually made from cotton or a blend of cotton and polyester. It is a crisp fabric that can be printed with colourful designs. White pique is the classic fabric for tennis clothes and detachable collars and cuffs.

Plisse. A puckered effect produced on cotton fabrics by shrinking some areas of the fabric with a chemical, caustic soda. The finish is reasonably permanent, but plisse fabrics should not be ironed as the puckers will become flattened.

Poplin. A light to medium-weight cotton with fine cross ribs formed by using a weft yarn which is thicker than the warp.

Sateen. A strong, satin-weave fabric made of cotton, can be plain or printed.

Voile. A light, delicate cotton or silk fabric used for summer garments and lightweight curtains.