Занятие 3

Раздел 5

Ткани и их использование

Тема 5.2

Волокна и нити

5.2.1.Хлопок

Образовательная цель

Повторение правил образования и использования безличных предложений

Развивающая цель

Изучение и использование лексики по теме «Хлопок»

Воспитательная цель

Осознание необходимости изучения профессиональной лексики для дальнейшей успешной работы по специальности

Порядок выполнения заданий

1. Повторение правил образования и использования безличных предложений

2. Изучение слов из словаря терминов

3. Использование слов из словаря терминов при выполнении проверочных упражнений (А.1. – А.3.)

4. Выполнение упражнений типа «В» для контроля понимания текста

5. Выполнение задания для самостоятельной работы (А.4.)

А.1. Прочитать текст, выявить незнакомые слова и добавить их в словарь терминов

CLASSIFICATION OF WEAVES

There are three basic types of weave, namely, plain, twill, satin. Weaves are named according to the system or design followed in in­terlacing warp and filling yarns.

Plain Weave.

In this, the simplest weave, the filling is passed over one warp yarn and under the next. The second time across, the filling passes over the warp yarns it went under, and under the warps it went over on the previous row. The third time across is a repetition of the first, the fourth repeats the second, and so on. Plain-weave cloths can be cleaned easily, and when firm and closely woven, they wear well.

Variations in the plain weave are accomplished by using yarns of different fibres, sizes, twists, and/or colours. Several methods can be used to make a plain-weave fabric more attractive. The first is to produce a ribbed effect by using fillings much heavier than warps, as in poplin, or by using warps much heavier than fillings, as in dimity. The former method is the most common. A striped effect is produced by alternation of fine and heavy warps at regular intervals.

Twill Weave.

Twill is the most durable of all weaves. In this weave the filling yarns are interlaced with the warps in such a way as to form ridges across the fabric. These diagonals, called wales, may run from upper left to lower right, from upper right to lower left, or both ways in the same cloth. The most common variation of the twill weave is the herringbone. In this weave the diagonal runs in one direction for a few rows and then reverses and runs in the opposite direction. Twill weaves usually make fabrics closer in texture, heavier, and stronger than do plain weaves. This is why twills are so suitable for men's clothing fabrics.

Satin Weaves.

Satin weaves are a group of structures designed to produce a smooth fabric surface without twill markings. The word satin creates a mental picture of a smooth lustrous fabric. The reason is that more warps than fillings are exposed on the right side. If the fabric is turned over, more fillings than warps are visible.

Satins are not very durable if subjected to much abrasion.

А.2. Выполнить упражнение(Вставить нужное слово из скобок)

Types of Weave

The weave affects the character of the ... (cloth, clothing, style).

A ... (basket, satin, plain) weave is used most; and when the weaving is close, a plain woven material will suggest durability whatever the yarn.

The ... (basket, rib, honeycomb) weave, a variation of the plain, gives a texture stripe to the cloth, however small the threads.

A basket weave suggests ... (durability, strength, looseness).

Twills, when made of smooth yarns, produce patterned effect by the diagonal line.

Materials woven with a satin weave are high in ... (lustre, flexibility, durability) and have a very smooth surface.

The gauze weave used in marquisette gives a transparency (прозрачность) that is accompanied by durability.

The pile weave used in ... (velveteen, silk, crepe) gives depth and elegance.

В.1. Ответить на вопросы

1. Explain the difference between lace and felt fabrics.

2. What is weaving?

3. How is the plain weave made?

4. What are the advantages of the plain weave?

5. In what ways may the plain weave be varied?

6. Explain the construction of a twill weave.

7. In what respect does the satin weave differ from the twill weave?

8. Which of the three standard weaves is the most durable? Why? b) the most beautiful? Why?

9. Which of the three standard weaves is the most beautiful? Why?

10. What is the difference between filament and staple fibres? b) woven and knitted fabrics?

11. What is the difference between woven and knitted fabrics?

Словарь терминов занятия 3

affinity n сродство: affinity for dyestuffs, affinity for water

application n 1. применение, использование; 2. заявление; apply v 1. обращаться с просьбой, просить; 2. использовать, применять; written application, application of natural fibres; to apply for aid

artificial а искусственный; artificial silk, flowers

bleach v отбеливать, обесцвечивать

colourfast а невыцветающий, прочный (об окраске); colour-fastness (to light) n - светоустойчивость краски

comb v чесать, расчесывать

crease n складка, отутюженная складка брюк; v 1. делать, закладывать складки, 2. мяться; to crease easily, crease-resistant

damage n вред, повреждение, дефект; v повреждать, портить

develop v развивать, разрабатывать, совершенствовать;

development n развитие, разработка, создание, достижение, процесс, результат (развития); to develop dress (colour) sense, , to develop one's individual image/style, to develop research projects

dressing n 1. отделка; 2. очистка; 3. Аппретирование

dye n краска, краситель, окраска; v красить; dyestuff n красящее вещество, краситель: to dye one's hair, to dye smth red, to dye well

fairly adv довольно, в известной степени;

flammable а воспламеняемый, воспламеняющийся, огнеопасный; inflammable а легко воспламеняющийся, горючий; (in)flammability n воспламеняемость; flameproof а огнестойкий; flame-retardant а задерживающий распространение пламени (огнестойкими тканями)

flax л лен (растение); linen n 1. льняная ткань; 2. холст, полотно; 3. льняные изделия; linen fabrics, table-linen

fleece n 1. овечья шерсть; 2. Начес

fluffy а пушистый, мягкий: fluffy surface, material

furnishings n (pl) 1. обстановка, меблировка; 2. домашние принадлежности, 3. украшения, предметы одежды

impart v придавать, наделять;

iron v утюжить; to iron clothes, to iron with a hot iron

irritate v вызывать раздражение; irritant а вызывающий раздражение, раздражающий

mention v упоминать, ссылаться на;

odourless а не имеющий запаха

perspiration п пот, испарина; to perspire v потеть;

property n 1. свойство, качество; 2. собственность: chemical properties,

pure a 1. чистый, беспримесный; 2. однородный (о цвете); purification n 1. очистка, очищение; purify v - очищать(ся); purity n чистота, беспримесность; impurity п 1. нечистота, грязь, pure silk,

provide v 1. (with) снабжать, обеспечивать; 2. предоставлять, давать; 3. (for) предусматривать; provided (that) при условии; to provide stability, to provide additional warmth, to provide another layer of fabric

raw а сырой, необработанный;

remove v уничтожать, удалять (пятна);

repellent а отталкивающий; water-repellent водоотталкивающий, водонепроницаемый

resilience n упругость, эластичность; resilient а упругий, эластичный; lack of resilience отсутствие упругости

retention n сохранение; shape retention, moisture retention

retting n мочка, замочка

ripe а зрелый, спелый;

rot v гнить, портиться

scorch v подпаливать, to scorch linen in ironing подпалить белье при глажении

scutch v трепать (лен)

severe a 1. простой, строгий (о платье, стиле), 2. трудный, тяжелый (об испытании), severe test испытание в жестких условиях;

set v устанавливать, фиксировать; permanent set properties способность материалов к форормозакреплению

slack а слабый, ненатянутый, ослабнувший; slackly twisted yarns, to knit slackly

soil v пачкать, грязнить; to soil one's clothes

springiness n упругость, эластичность; springy а упругий,

stain n пятно; v покрывать пятнами, пачкать;

starch v крахмалить

stiff а жесткий, крепкий, неэластичный; stiffness n жесткость, прочность; напряжение при растяжении;stiff shoes (when new)

tasteless а безвкусный;

tiny а очень маленький, крошечный

treat v 1. обрабатывать, подвергать воздействию; 2.treatment 1. обработка; 2. обращение; to treat fabrics with, finishing treatment

wax n воск; attr. восковой; v вощить: to wax thread, to wax floors, wax content

workmanship n 1. мастерство, квалификация; 2. качество изготовления;

withstand v 1. устоять, выдержать; 2. противостоять, сопротивляться; to withstand laundering treatments, to withstand abrasion

wrinkle n складка, морщина; v морщить(ся); to iron out the wrinkles in a dress, to fit without a wrinkle; to wrinkle a dress

А.3. Прочитать и перевести тексты, пользуясь словарем терминов

COTTON

This is the most versatile and the most widely used textile fibre, possessing more 'ideal' properties than any other fibre. Cotton is widely available and is the cheapest natural fibre used for clothing. It is produced on a bush which is widely grown in sub-tropical regions throughout the world.

The bolls, which are the flower seed (семена) capsules, open when ripe revealing a fluffy mass of fibres and they are picked either by hand or by machine. The fibres are separated from the seeds by ginning, a machine process, which quickly and conveniently makes the fibres available for textile use.

Cotton in its raw state is composed of 90% cellulose and a small amount of wax, it is usually a creamy off-white colour although there are some varieties which are almost brown. When purified the fibre is pure white, highly absorbent, tasteless and odourless, very smooth and soft, non-irritant and cool to the touch. It is ideal therefore for all clothing uses because the properties just mentioned make it comfortable and it has no objectionable wearing properties. In addition to its purity the fibre is very chemically stable when purified. It can be boiled, or sterilized, without disintegration, it is resistant to damage by alkalis so that severe laundering treatments can be withstood. It has good resistance to heat so that abnormal care in ironing, pressing or drying is not necessary. The absorbency of the pure fibre and its chemical stability give it a good affinity for dyes and its whiteness enables a wide range of colours to be applied. The fibre in its normal state is not lustruous but the chemical treatment known as mercerization can produce a permanent lustre on yarns or fabrics when required. Since cotton fibre is fairly inelastic, most cotton fabrics wrinkle easily.

The chemical stability of cotton enables a wide range of finishing treatments to be applied to produce specific performance properties such as water-repellency, flame-resistance, crease-resistance, 'drip-dry" properties, weather and rot resistance, and 'permanent set' properties.

Cotton has two main disadvantages:

1. Lack of resilience. Though cotton is strong it has very little elasticity and fibre does not resist deformation so that cotton fabrics tend to crease easily.

2. Inflammability. Cotton burns very readily. Chemical treatments which will make cotton fabrics flame-resistant can be applied.

THE ADVANTAGES OF MERCERIZED COTTONS

If a cotton fabric is to have a smooth surface, it is mercerized after it has been bleached. The process of mercerizing was discovered by John Mercer about the middle of the nineteenth century. Mercerization is a special treatment of cottons by a caustic soda solution. Mercerization gives cotton fabrics definite advantages

1. They do not soil so readily as unmercerized cottons. It is because their yarns are smoother and rounder.

2. Mercerized cottons are easier to iron than unmercerized cottons.

3. They are more absorbent than unmercerized cottons. And more absorbent fabrics are more comfortable to wear than less absorbent ones.

4. Mercerized cottons resemble silk and wool because of their lustre.

Notes:

boll - семенная коробочка

ginning - очистка хлопка от семян

В.1. Ответить на вопросы

1. What is mercerization?

2. Why do mercerized cottons soil not so readily as unmercerized cottons?

3. Are mercerized cottons easier to iron?

4. How will you explain that absorbent fabrics are more comfortable than less absorbent ones?

А.4. Задание для самостоятельной работы.

Прочитать текст, добавить слова в словарь терминов

FLAX

1. This is the name of the fibre from which linen is made. Although it would appear that flax has been used by man for textiles for as long as cotton this fibre is much more restricted and specialised in use and does not have the versatility of cotton and is a more expensive fibre.

2. Flax is a bast fibre, being obtained from the stalks of the linen plant which can be grown in many parts of the world in almost any climate. The fibres are loosened from the stalk by a process known as retting, the immersion of bundles of stalks in slow-moving water.

3. After retting the bundles are dried and then scutching takes place. This is a mechanical beating or breaking process whereby the woody parts of the stalks are broken leaving the long bundles of fibres intact.

4. Flax fibres are very long. Flax fibres are much longer and thicker than cotton fibres and their thickness is irregular. Preparation of the fibres consists of splitting the bundles of fibres, as obtained from the stalks, into individual long fibres and removing waste and broken fibres. Yarns spun from flax tend to be uneven because of the length and thickness of the fibres. A special technique of spinning has to be used for the yarns, whereby the fibre cells are loosened so that the yarn can be drawn out to the requisite fineness.

5. Flax is a cellulosic fibre, as is cotton, but it has a higher wax content which gives the fibre a distinctive lustre. Purifications of the fibre must retain sufficient wax for the development of lustre and this entails much more care and expense than the purification of cotton and cannot be carried out as simply as with cotton.

6. Versatility. The natural lustre of flax is developed in linen damask fabrics used for table wear. The beauty and natural lustre of these fabrics is well known.

7. The strength and durability of the fibre make the fabrics attractive. The high strength of flax made it suitable for industrial uses in strong threads and heavy canvases and tarpaulins.