New_York_City_2012_-_Fodor_39_s

Siberian tigers, who frolic in a pool, lounge outside (even in cold weather), and enjoy daily “enrichment sessions” with keepers. As the big cats are often napping at midday, aim to visit in the morning or evening. In the new $62 million exhibit Madagascar!, the formality of the old Lion House has been replaced with a verdant re-creation of one of the most threatened natural habitats in the world. Here you’ll see adorable lemurs and far-from-adorable hissing cockroaches.

Go on a minisafari via the Wild Asia Monorail ($4), open May–October, weather permitting. As you wend your way through the forest, see Asian elephants, Indo-Chinese tigers, Indian rhinoceroses, gaur (the world’s largest cattle), Mongolian wild horses, and several deer and antelope species. TIP Try to visit the most popular exhibits, such as Congo Gorilla Forest, early to avoid lines later in the day. In winter the outdoor exhibitions have fewer animals on view, but there are also fewer crowds, and plenty of indoor exhibits to savor. From mid-November to January 1 the zoo is decorated with holiday lights and open until 9 pm. | Bronx River Pkwy. and Fordham Rd., Fordham | 10460 | 718/367–1010 | www.bronxzoo.com | $16; extra charge for some exhibits; free Wed., donation suggested; parking $13 | Apr.–Oct., weekdays 10–5, weekends 10–5:30; Nov.–Mar., daily 10– 4:30; last ticket sold 30 mins before closing | Subway: 2, 5 to E. Tremont/West Farms, then walk 2 blocks up Boston Rd. to zoo’s Asia entrance; Bx11 express bus to Bronx River entrance.

Fodor’s Choice | New York Botanical Garden.

Considered one of the leading botany centers of the world, this 250-acre garden is one of the best reasons to make a trip to the Bronx. Built around the dramatic gorge of the Bronx River, the Garden offers lush indoor and outdoor gardens, and acres of natural forest, as well as classes, concerts, and special exhibits. Be astounded by the captivating fragrance of the Peggy Rockefeller Rose Garden’s 2,700 plants of more than 250 varieties; see intricate orchids that look like the stuff of science fiction; relax in the quiet of the forest or the calm of the Conservatory; or take a jaunt through the Everett Children’s Adventure Garden: a 12-acre, indoor-outdoor museum with a boulder maze, giant animal topiaries, and a plant discovery center.

The Garden’s roses bloom in June and September, but there’s plenty to see year-round. The Victorian-style Enid A. Haupt Conservatory ($20, part of the Combination Ticket) houses re-creations of misty tropical rain forests and arid African and North American deserts as well as exhibitions, such as the annual Holiday Train Show and the Orchid Show. The Combination Ticket ($20) gives you access to the Conservatory, Rock Garden, Native Plant Garden, Tram Tour, Everett Children’s Adventure Garden, and exhibits in the library.

The most direct way to the Garden is via Metro-North Railroad (www.mta.info/mnr) from Grand Central Terminal (Harlem Local Line, Botanical Garden stop). Round-trip tickets are $10.50 to $14, depending on time of day. A cheaper alternative is to take the D or 4 train to Bedford Park Boulevard, then walk east. | 200th St. at Kazimiroff Blvd., Bedford Park | 10458 | 718/817–8700 | www.nybg.org | Grounds only $6, free Sat. 10–noon and all day Wed.; All-Garden Pass $20; parking $12 | Tues.–Sun. 10–6 | Subway: B, D, 4 to Bedford Park Blvd., then walk 8 blocks downhill to the garden; Metro-North to Botanical Garden.

Yankee Stadium.

Fans are still mourning the original, legendary Yankee Stadium, which saw its last season in 2008. Though the team is still breaking it in, the new Yankee Stadium—right next to the House that Ruth Built—has gotten off to a good start, with the Yankees winning the World Series in its inaugural year.

Tickets can be ridiculously expensive, but the experience is like watching baseball in Las Vegas’s Bellagio hotel. It’s incredibly opulent and over-the-top: traditional white frieze adorns the stadium’s top; inside, limestone-and-marble hallways are lined with photos of past Yankee greats; lower-level seats have cushions, cup holders, and a boffo meatery, NYY Steak.

Like the team, all the amenities here don’t come cheap. But the spirit of the original stadium still remains. History buffs and hard-core fans should be sure to visit Monument Park, with plaques of past team members, by Center Field—it survived from the old stadium. Aside from the subway, you can also get here by Metro-North, to the Yankees–153rd Street Station. | River Ave. at 161st St., South Bronx | 10451 | 718/293–6000 | www.yankees.com | Subway: B (weekdays only), D, or 4 to 161st St.–Yankee Stadium.

Arthur Avenue (Belmont).

Manhattan’s Little Italy is sadly overrun with mediocre restaurants aimed at tourists, but Belmont, the Little Italy of the Bronx, is a real, thriving Italian-American community. Unless you have family in the area, the main reason to come here is for the food: eating it, buying it, looking at it

fondly through windows. A secondary, but just as important, reason is chatting with shopkeepers so you can steal their recipes.

Nearly a century after pushcarts on Arthur Avenue catered to Italian-American workers constructing the zoo and Botanical Garden, the area teems with meat markets, bakeries, and cheese makers. There are long debates about which store or restaurant is the “best,” but thanks to generations of Italian grandmothers, vendors here wouldn’t dare offer anything less than superfresh, handmade foods.

Although the area is no longer solely Italian—many Latinos and Albanians share this neighborhood now—Italians dominate the food scene. Regulars mostly shop on Saturday afternoon; you’ll find many stores shuttered on Sunday and after 6 pm. | Arthur Ave. between Crescent Ave./E. 184th St. and E. 188th Sts., and 187th St. from Lorillard Pl. to Hughes Ave. Belmont | 10458 | Subway: B, D, 4 to Fordham Rd., then Bx12 east; 2, 5 to Pelham Pkwy., then Bx12 west.

WORTH NOTING

OFF THE BEATEN PATH: Wave Hill.

Drawn by stunning views of the Hudson River and New Jersey’s dramatic cliffs, 19th-century Manhattan millionaires built summer homes in the Bronx suburb of Riverdale. One of the most magnificent, Wave Hill, is now a 28-acre public garden and cultural center that attracts green thumbs from all over the world. Along with exquisite gardens, grand beech and oak trees adorn wide lawns, an elegant pergola overlooks the majestic river view, and benches on curving pathways provide quiet respite. Wave Hill House (1843) and Glyndor House (1927) now house art exhibitions, Sunday concerts, and gardening workshops. Even England’s queen stayed here during a visit. It’s worth the schlep. | Independence Ave. at W. 249th St., Riverdale | 10471 | 718/549–3200 | www.wavehill.org | $6; free Tues. and Sat. mornings | Mid-Apr.–mid-Oct., Tues.–Sun. 9– 5:30; mid-Oct.–mid-Apr., Tues.–Sun. 9–4:30; closed Mon. except holidays. Free garden tours Sun. at 2 | Subway: 1 to 231st St., then Bx7 or Bx10 bus to 252nd St. and Riverdale Ave. or free van service hourly from W. 242nd St. station between 9:10 am and 4:10 pm.

WHERE TO EAT IN THE BRONX

Antonio’s Trattoria.

$ | ITALIAN | Antonio’s bills itself as “an Italian restaurant serving simple food,” but that’s underselling it by far. Fantastic classic Italian fare is dished out here; do not miss the baked clams, the house-made ravioli, and the excellent pizzas. It’s a bit off the main Arthur Avenue strip, but worth the trek. | 2370 Belmont Ave., Belmont | 10458 | 718/733– 6630 | antoniostrattoria.com | Closed Mon. | MC, V | Subway: B, D to 182nd.

Zero Otto Nove.

$ | ITALIAN | Though insiders who can get a table swear by Rao’s on 114th in Manhattan, Zero Otto Nove chugs along as one of the best Italian restaurants north of 96th Street.

The draw? Wood-oven-fired pizza, perfectly chewy and larded with buffalo mozzarella. The San Matteo, which adds broccoli rabe to the mix, is just as addictive as the plain Jane margherita. | 2357 Arthur Ave., Belmont | 10458 | 718/220–1027 | Reservations not accepted | MC, V | Closed Mon. | Subway: B, D to 182nd.

SHOPPING IN THE BRONX

The covered Arthur Avenue Retail Market (2344 Arthur Ave., at E. 187th St., Belmont | 10458 | 718/367–5686 | Subway: B, D, 4 to Fordham Rd., then 15-min walk or Bx12 east), which houses more than a dozen vendors, was opened by Mayor Fiorello LaGuardia in an effort to get the pushcarts off the crowded streets. Inside, you’ll find great sandwiches and pizza, barrels of olives, a butcher specializing in offal, and lots of fresh pastas. Cigars are rolled by hand right at the building’s entrance, alongside Italian gifts and kitchenware. It’s open Monday through Saturday 6–6.

Let an Italian nonna (grandmother) sell you homemade fresh pastas of every kind, shape, and flavor at Borgatti’s Ravioli & Egg Noodles (632 E. 187th St., between Belmont and Hughes Aves., Belmont | 10458 | 718/367– 3799). It’s closed all day Monday and Sunday afternoon, and frequently has shorter hours in summer.

Don’t miss the porcine spectacle of Calabria Pork Store

(2338 Arthur Ave., between 186th St. and Crescent Ave., Belmont | 10458 | 718/367–5145), where a forest of house-aged salamis dangles thickly from the rafters.

At Calandra Cheese (2314 Arthur Ave., between 186th St. and Crescent Ave., Belmont | 10458 | 718/365–7572) bulbous spheres of freshly made cheese hang from the ceiling. Go for the cacciocavallo—a dry, salty mozzarella— or the clean-tasting ricotta.

The brick ovens at Madonia Brothers Bakery (2348 Arthur Ave., at 187th St., Belmont | 10458 | 718/295–

5573) have been turning out golden-brown loaves since 1918, but the true stars are fresh, crispy cannoli, filled only when you order, with not-too-sweet ricotta cream.

QUICK BITES: At Teitel Bros (2372 Arthur Ave., at E. 186th St., Belmont | 10458 | 718/733–9400), grab a number and stand elbow-to-elbow with locals buying pungent olives, hulking hunks of hard cheeses, pounds of dried beans, and gallons of olive oil.

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Exploring Staten Island

Staten Island is full of surprises, from a premier collection of Tibetan art to a multifaceted historic village. To explore the borough, take the Staten Island Ferry from the southern tip of Manhattan. After you disembark, grab an S40 bus to the Snug Harbor Cultural Center (about 10 minutes) or take the S74 and combine visits to the Tibetan Museum and Historic Richmond Town.

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EXPLORING STATEN ISLAND

TOP ATTRACTIONS

Historic Richmond Town.

Think of Virginia’s Colonial Williamsburg (the polar opposite of Brooklyn’s scene-y Williamsburg), and you’ll understand the appeal of Richmond Town. This 100-acre village, constructed from 1695 to the 19th century, was the site of Staten Island’s original county seat.

Fifteen of the site’s 27 historic buildings are open to the public. Highlights include the Gothic Revival Courthouse, the one-room General Store, and the Voorlezer’s House, one of the oldest buildings on the site. It served as a residence, a place of worship, and an elementary school.

Also on-site is the Staten Island Historical Society

Museum, built in 1848 as the second county clerk’s and surrogate’s office, which now houses Staten Island artifacts plus changing exhibits about the island. Audio tours are free with admission. You may see staff in period dress demonstrate Early American crafts and trades such as tinsmithing or basket making, though the general era meant to be re-created is 1820–1860. December brings a monthlong Christmas celebration.

Take the S74–Richmond Road bus (30 minutes) or a car service (about $15) from the ferry terminal. | 441 Clarke Ave., Richmondtown | 10306 | 718/351–1611 | www.historicrichmondtown.org | $5 | July and Aug., Wed.– Sun. 11–5; Sept.–June, Wed.–Sun. 1–5 | Subway: S74 bus to St. Patrick’s Pl.

Fodor’s Choice | Staten Island Ferry.

One of Staten Island’s biggest attractions is free—the phenomenal view of Manhattan and the Statue of Liberty afforded by the 25-minute ferry ride across New York Harbor. From Whitehall Terminal at the southern tip of Manhattan, catch the ferry, which leaves every 15 minutes to half hour. | Runs between Manhattan’s Whitehall Terminal, Whitehall and South Sts., and Staten Island’s St. George Terminal | www.siferry.com | Subway: 4, 5 to Bowling Green; R to Whitehall St.; 1 to South Ferry.

WORTH NOTING

Jacques Marchais Museum of Tibetan Art.

At the top of a hill sits this replica of a Tibetan monastery containing one of the largest collections of Tibetan and Himalayan sculpture, paintings, and artifacts outside Tibet. Meditate with visiting Buddhist monks, or just enjoy the peaceful views from the terraced garden. | 338 Lighthouse Ave., Richmondtown | 10306 | 718/987–3500 | www.tibetanmuseum.org | $5 | Thurs.–Sun. 1–5 | Subway: S74 bus to Lighthouse Ave. and walk uphill 15 mins.

Snug Harbor Cultural Center.

Once part of a sprawling farm, this 83-acre community is now a popular spot to see maritime art, frolic in the Children’s Museum, or take a stroll through lush gardens.

Made up of 26 mostly restored historic buildings, Snug Harbor’s center is a row of mid-19th-century Greek Revival temples. Main Hall—the oldest building on the property—is home to the Eleanor Proske Visitors Center ($3, including Newhouse Center), which has exhibits on art and Snug Harbor’s history. The adjacent Newhouse Center for Contemporary Art (718/425–3524 | $3, including visitor center) shows multidisciplinary videos, mixed media, and performances. Next door at the Noble Maritime Collection (718/447–6490 | www.noblemaritime.org | $5) an old seamen’s dormitory is now a museum of ocean-inspired artwork.

From the Staten Island Ferry terminal, take the S40 bus 2 mi (about seven minutes) to the Snug Harbor Road stop. Or grab a car service at the ferry terminal. (The ride should cost you about $5.)

Spread over the cultural center grounds is the Staten Island Botanical Garden (718/448–2500 | www.snug-harbor.org | Free; $5 for Chinese Garden and Secret Garden | Daily dawn–dusk; Chinese Garden and Secret Garden Apr.– Sept., Tues.–Sun. 10–5; Oct.–Mar., Tues.–Sun. noon–4), which includes an orchid collection, 9/11 memorial, 20-acre wetland, Chinese Scholar’s Garden, and a sensory garden with fragrant, touchable flowers and a tinkling waterfall. Children love the Connie Gretz Secret Garden with its castle and maze among the flowers. | 1000 Richmond Terr., between Snug Harbor Rd. and Tyson Ave., Livingston | 10301 | 718/448–2500 | www.snug-harbor.org | $3; gardens and galleries combined $6; Cultural Center grounds free | Tues.–Sun. 10–5; Noble Maritime Thurs.– Sun. 10–5; grounds dawn–dusk every day except major holidays.

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Main Table of Contents

Getting Here and Around

Essentials

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Air Travel | Boat Travel | Bus Travel | Car Travel | Limousine Travel | Public Transportation | Subway Travel | Taxi Travel | Train Travel

New York City packs a staggering range of sights and activities into the 322 square mi of its five boroughs. You’ll probably want to focus most of your visit in Manhattan, but with more time, taking a trip to the “outer” boroughs (meaning Brooklyn, Queens, the Bronx, and Staten Island) is worthwhile. To experience the most from the city, you need to think like a New Yorker: explore with your eyes open to everything around you; every city block offers new and unexpected sights.

If you’re flying into one of the three major airports that service New York—John F. Kennedy (JFK), LaGuardia, or Newark, which is in New Jersey—pick your mode of transportation for getting to Manhattan before your plane lands. The route tourists typically take is to hire a car or wait in the taxi line, but those aren’t necessarily the best choices, especially if arriving during rush hour. Public transportation is easy and inexpensive, and should be considered.

Once you’re in Manhattan, getting around can be a breeze when you get the hang of the subway system. When not in a rush, just walk—it’s the best way to discover the true New York. Not quite sure where you are or how to get where you’re headed? Ask a local. You may be surprised at how friendly the city’s inhabitants are, debunking their reputation for rudeness. In the same getting-there-is-half-the-fun spirit, find water, land, and air journeys to see the city from a whole new perspective.

AIR TRAVEL

Generally, more international flights go in and out of John F. Kennedy Airport, more domestic flights go in and out of LaGuardia Airport, and Newark Airport serves both domestic and international travelers.

Airlines and Airports Airline and Airport Links.com

(www.airlineandairportlinks.com) has links to many of the world’s airlines and airports.

Airline Security Issues The Transportation Security

Administration (www.tsa.gov) has answers for almost every question that might come up.

AIRPORTS

The major air gateways to New York City are LaGuardia Airport (LGA) and JFK International Airport (JFK) in the borough of Queens, and Newark Liberty International Airport (EWR) in New Jersey.

TIP Long layovers don’t have to be only about sitting around or shopping. These days they can be about burning off vacation calories. Check out www.airportgyms.com for lists of health clubs that are in or near many U.S. and Canadian airports.

Airport Information JFK International Airport

(718/244–4444 | www.jfkairport.com). LaGuardia Airport (718/533–3400 | www.laguardiaairport.com). Newark Liberty International Airport (973/961–6000 or 888/397–4636 | www.newarkairport.com).

Transfers—Car Services

Car services can be a great deal because the driver will often meet you on the concourse or in the baggage-claim area and help you with your luggage. The flat rates and tolls are often comparable to taxi fares, but some car services will charge for parking and waiting time at the airport. To eliminate these expenses, other car services require that you telephone their dispatcher when you land so they can send the next available car to pick you up. New York City Taxi and Limousine Commission rules require that all car services be licensed and pick up riders only by prior arrangement; if possible, call 24 hours in advance for reservations, or at least a half day before your flight’s departure. Drivers of nonlicensed vehicles (gypsy cabs) often solicit fares outside the terminal in baggage-claim areas. Don’t take them: you run the risk of an unsafe ride, and you’ll definitely pay more than the going rate.

Transfers—Taxis and Shuttles

Outside the baggage-claim area at each of New York’s major airports are taxi stands where a uniformed dispatcher helps passengers find taxis . Cabs are not permitted to pick up fares anywhere else in the arrivals area, so if you want a taxi, take your place in line. Shuttle services generally pick up passengers from a designated spot along the curb.

New York Airport Service runs buses between JFK and LaGuardia airports, and buses from those airports to Grand Central Terminal, Port Authority Bus Terminal, Penn Station, Bryant Park, and hotels between 23rd and 63rd streets in Manhattan. Fares cost between $12 and $15 one way and $21 to $27 round-trip. Buses operate from 6:05 am to 11 pm from the airport; between 5 am and 10 pm going to the airport.

SuperShuttle vans travel to and from Manhattan to JFK, LaGuardia, and Newark. These blue vans will stop at your home, office, or hotel. There are courtesy phones at the airports. For travel to the airport, the company recommends that you make your request 24 hours in advance. Fares range from $15 to $23 per person.

Shuttle Service New York Airport Service (718/875– 8200 | www.nyairportservice.com). SuperShuttle (800/258–3826 | www.supershuttle.com).

Transfers from JFK International Airport

Taxis charge a flat fee of $45 plus tolls (which may be as much as $6) to Manhattan only, and take 35–60 minutes. Prices are roughly $20–$55 for trips to most other locations in New York City. You should also tip the driver.

The AirTrain links to the A subway line’s Howard Beach station, and to Long Island Railroad’s (LIRR) Jamaica Station, which is adjacent to the Sutphin Boulevard/Archer Avenue E/J/Z subway station, with connections to Manhattan. The monorail system runs 24 hours, leaving from Howard Beach and Jamaica stations every 4 to 8 minutes during peak times and every 12 minutes during offpeak times. From Midtown Manhattan, the longest trip to JFK is via the A train, a trip of less than an hour that costs $2.25 in subway fare in addition to $5 for the AirTrain. The quickest trip is with the Long Island Railroad (about 30 minutes), for a total cost of about $13. When traveling to the Howard Beach station, be sure to take the A train marked “Far Rockaway” or “Rockaway Park,” not “Lefferts Boulevard.”

JFK Transfer Information AirTrain JFK

(www.airtrainjfk.com). Long Island Railroad (Jamaica Station | 146 Archer Ave., at Sutphin Ave. | Queens | 11435 | 718/217–5477 | www.mta.info/lirr).

Transfers from LaGuardia Airport

Taxis cost $21–$30 plus tip and tolls (which may be as high as $6) to most destinations in New York City, and take at least 20–40 minutes.

For $2.25 you can ride the M-60 public bus (there are limited luggage facilities on some buses) to 106th Street and Broadway on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. From there, you can transfer to the subway to head to your destination. Alternatively, you can take the Q-48 bus to the Main Street subway station in Flushing, where you can transfer to the 7 train. Allow at least 90 minutes for the entire trip to Midtown.

Transfers from Newark Airport

Taxis to Manhattan cost $50–$70 plus tolls ($8) and take 20 to 45 minutes. “Share and Save” group rates are available for up to four passengers between 8 am and midnight—make arrangements with the airport’s taxi dispatcher. If you’re heading to the airport from Manhattan, a $15 surcharge applies to the normal taxi rates and the $5 toll.

AirTrain Newark is an elevated light rail system that connects to New Jersey Transit and Amtrak trains at the Newark Liberty International Airport Station. Total travel time to Penn Station in Manhattan is approximately 20 minutes and costs $15. AirTrain runs every 3 minutes from 5 am to midnight and every 15 minutes from midnight to 5 am.

The AirTrain to Newark’s Penn Station takes five minutes. From Newark Penn Station you can catch PATH trains, which run to Manhattan 24 hours a day. PATH trains run every 10 minutes on weekdays, every 15 to 30 minutes on weeknights and weekends. After stopping at Christopher Street, one line travels along 6th Avenue, making stops at West 9th Street, West 14th Street, West 23rd Street, and West 33rd Street. Other PATH trains connect Newark Penn Station with the World Trade Center site. PATH train fare is $1.75.

Coach USA with Olympia Trails buses leave for Grand Central Terminal and Penn Station in Manhattan about every 15 to 30 minutes until midnight. The trip takes roughly 45 minutes, and the fare is $15. Between the Port Authority or Grand Central Terminal and Newark, buses run every 20 to 30 minutes. The trip takes 55 to 65 minutes

Newark Airport Information AirTrain Newark (888/397– 4636 | www.airtrainnewark.com). Coach USA (877/894– 9155 | www.coachusa.com). PATH Trains (800/234–7284 | www.pathrail.com).

Transfers Between Airports

AirTrain provides detailed, up-to-the-minute recorded information on how to reach your destination from any of New York’s airports. Note that if you arrive after midnight at any airport, you may wait a long time for a taxi. Consider calling a car service, as there is no shuttle service at that time.

Contacts AirTrain (800/247–7433 | www.airtrainnewark.com).

BOAT TRAVEL

The Staten Island Ferry runs across New York Harbor between Whitehall Street next to Battery Park in Lower Manhattan and St. George terminal in Staten Island. The free 25-minute ride gives you a view of the Financial District skyscrapers, the Statue of Liberty, and Ellis Island.

New York Water Taxi, in addition to serving commuters, shuttles tourists to the city’s many waterfront attractions between the West and East sides and Lower Manhattan, the South Street Seaport, and Brooklyn’s waterfront parks. The hop-on, hop-off one-day pass ticket is $20; the two-day pass is $25.

Information New York Water Taxi (NYWT | 212/742– 1969 | www.nywatertaxi.com). Staten Island Ferry (www.siferry.com).

BUS TRAVEL

Most long-haul and commuter bus lines feed into the Port Authority Bus Terminal, on 8th Avenue between West 40th and 42nd streets. You must purchase your ticket at a ticket counter, not from the bus driver, so give yourself enough time to wait in a line. Several bus lines serving northern New Jersey and Rockland County, New York, make daily stops at the George Washington Bridge Bus Station from 5 am to 1 am. The station is connected to the 175th Street Station on the A line of the subway, which travels down the West Side of Manhattan.

A variety of discount bus services, including BoltBus and Vamoose Bus, offer direct routes from cities such as Philadelphia, Boston, and Washington, D.C., with the majority of destinations lying along the East Coast. These budget options, priced from about $20 one way, depart from locations throughout the city.

Most city buses follow easy-to-understand routes along the Manhattan street grid. Routes go up or down the north– south avenues, or east and west on the major two-way crosstown streets: 96th, 86th, 79th, 72nd, 57th, 42nd, 34th,