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EXPLORING BROOKLYN HEIGHTS

Brooklyn Borough Hall.

Built in 1848 as Brooklyn’s City Hall, this Greek Revival landmark is one of Brooklyn’s handsomest buildings. Adorned with Tuckahoe marble, it features a hammered square rotunda and a two-story Beaux-Arts courtroom.

Today the building serves as the office of Brooklyn’s borough president and the home of the Brooklyn Tourism & Visitors Center (718/802–3846 | www.visitbrooklyn.org), which has historical exhibits, a gift shop, and helpful information. It’s open weekdays 10–6. Each Tuesday and Saturday as well as Thursday from April through December a greenmarket sets up on the flagstone plaza in front. | 209 Joralemon St., between Court and Adams Sts., Brooklyn Heights | 11201 | 718/802–3700 | Free | Subway: 2, 3, 4, 5 to Borough Hall; M, R to Court St; A, C, F to Jay St.

Fodor’s Choice | Brooklyn Bridge.

“A drive-through cathedral” is how the critic James Wolcott described one of New York’s noblest and most recognized landmarks. “The best, most effective medicine my soul has yet partaken,” said Walt Whitman upon seeing the nearly completed bridge. It spans the East River, connecting Manhattan and Brooklyn. A walk across its promenade—a boardwalk elevated above a roadway, shared by pedestrians, in-line skaters, and cyclists—takes about 40 minutes from the heart of Brooklyn Heights to Manhattan’s civic center. It’s worth traversing for the astounding views.

Lower Manhattan | Subway: 4, 5, 6 to Brooklyn Bridge/City Hall; J, Z to Chambers St.; A, C to High St.–Brooklyn Bridge.

Fodor’s Choice | Brooklyn Heights Promenade.

Stretching from Orange Street in the north to Remsen Street in the south, this esplanade provides enthralling views of Manhattan. Find a bench and take in the skyline, the Statue of Liberty, and the Brooklyn Bridge—an impressive 1883 steel suspension bridge designed by John Augustus Roebling.

To your left is Governors Island, a former Coast Guard base that’s now become a prime picnic and summertime festival destination for locals. Below you are the Brooklyn– Queens Expressway and Brooklyn’s industrial waterfront of warehouses, piers, and parking lots.

A greenway initiative is moving forward in a bid to build a 14-mi waterfront park for pedestrians and bikers. The first 6 acres of the park opened in March 2010 at Pier 1, including the park’s first waterfront promenade and a playground. Pier 6 opened in June 2010, and Pier 1 got another 3.5 acres of parkland in August 2010. The plan is to complete the entire park by 2013. For updates, check the Brooklyn Bridge Park Conservancy Web site at | www.brooklynbridgepark.org. | Subway: 2, 3 to Clark St.; A, C to High St.

Brooklyn Historical Society.

Housed in an 1881 Queen Anne–style National Landmark building (one of the gems of the neighborhood), the Brooklyn Historical Society displays memorabilia, artifacts, art, and interactive exhibitions. Upstairs, an impressive library—which contains an original copy of the Emancipation Proclamation—is invaluable to researchers. |

128 Pierrepont St., at Clinton St., Brooklyn Heights | 11201 | 718/222–4111 | www.brooklynhistory.org | $6 | Wed.–Fri. and Sun. noon–5, Sat. 10–5 | Subway: 2, 3, 4, 5 to Borough Hall; A, C, F to Jay St.; M, R to Court St.

Plymouth Church of the Pilgrims.

Built in 1849, this Protestant Congregational church was a center of abolitionist sentiment, thanks to the stirring oratory of Brooklyn’s most eminent theologian and the church’s first minister, Henry Ward Beecher (brother of Harriet Beecher Stowe, who wrote Uncle Tom’s Cabin). Because it provided refuge to slaves, the church was known to some as the Grand Central Depot of the Underground Railroad.

Though the architecture of this brick building may seem simple, it was enormously influential on subsequent American Protestant churches. Three Louis C. Tiffany stained-glass windows were added in the 1930s. In the gated garden beside the church a statue of Beecher by Gutzon Borglum (who later sculpted Mount Rushmore) depicts one of the slave “auctions”—publicity stunts wherein church members purchased the slaves’ freedom. A fragment of Plymouth Rock is in an adjoining arcade. | 75 Hicks St., at Orange St., Brooklyn Heights | 11201 | 718/624–4743 | www.plymouthchurch.org | Services Sun. at 11; tours by appointment | Subway: 2, 3 to Clark St.; A, C to High St.

Transit Museum.

Step down into a 1930s subway station, where you’ll find more than 60,000 square feet devoted to the history of public transportation. Interact with the collection of vintage trains and turnstiles, sit behind the wheel of city buses, and laugh over old subway advertisements and signs. The gift store is a great place for N.Y.C.-theme souvenirs. | Boerum Pl. at Schermerhorn St., Brooklyn Heights | 11201 | 718/694–1600 | www.mta.info/museum/ | $6 | Tues.–Fri. 10–4, weekends noon–5| Subway: 2, 3, 4, 5 to Borough Hall; A, C, F to Jay St.; M, R to Court St.

WHERE TO EAT IN BROOKLYN HEIGHTS

Henry’s End.

$$ | AMERICAN | At this nearly 40-year-old neighborhood favorite, the casual decor belies the quality of the food and wines. Wild game such as elk, kangaroo, and ostrich take center stage during the Wild Game Festival in the late fall and winter months; seasonal seafood and foraged vegetables star in the springtime. | 44 Henry St., near Cranberry St., Brooklyn Heights | 11201 | 718/834–1776 | www.henrysend.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | No lunch | Subway: 2, 3 to Clark St.; A, C to High St.

Noodle Pudding.

$$ | ITALIAN | The name is bad, but the food is great at this cozy restaurant serving the best regional Italian fare in

Brooklyn Heights. Locals especially rave about the osso buco served with goat-cheese polenta. It does get crowded, but that means it’s noisy enough that you can bring the kids. Note that reservations are accepted only for parties of six or more. | 38 Henry St., near Cranberry St., Brooklyn Heights | 11201 | 718/625–3737 | No credit cards | No lunch | Subway: A, C to High St.; 2, 3 to Clark St.

Teresa’s.

$ | POLISH | At the end of Montague Street, right before the entrance to the Promenade, this busy mom-and-pop coffee shop serves Polish and American comfort food, including breakfast all day. Fill up on delicate cheese blintzes, pierogi, and juicy kielbasa. | 80 Montague St., near Hicks St., Brooklyn Heights | 11201 | 718/797–3996 | MC, V | Subway: 2, 3 to Clark St.; R to Court St.

WHERE TO STAY IN BROOKLYN HEIGHTS

New York Marriott at the Brooklyn Bridge.

$$ | What Manhattan hotel has room for an Olympic-length lap pool, an 1,100-car garage, and even a dedicated kosher kitchen? Just like many New Yorkers before you, you’ll find that one virtue of staying in Brooklyn is all the extra space. Rooms are classic Marriott—large, comfortable, plain guest rooms enhanced by niceties such as high ceilings, massaging showerheads, and rolling desks. If you’re looking to explore, some of the borough’s best neighborhoods—Brooklyn Heights, Cobble Hill, Carroll Gardens, and DUMBO, as well as the Brooklyn Bridge pedestrian path—are just a five-minute walk. If you need to get to Manhattan, major subway lines are a block away or a few short minutes by taxi. Pros: near some of New York’s hipper neighborhoods; full-service hotel; stylish rooms. Cons: on a busy street in downtown Brooklyn. TripAdvisor: “wonderful breakfast buffet,” “exceptional staff,” “first class service.” | 333 Adams St., between Johnson and Willoughby Sts., Downtown Brooklyn | 11201 | 718/246–7000 or 888/436–3759 | www.marriott.com/nycbk | 666 rooms, 25 suites | In-room: a/c, safe, Internet. In-hotel: restaurant, room service, bar, pool, gym, laundry service, Wi-Fi hotspot, parking (paid) | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: 2, 3, 4, 5 to Borough Hall.

PERFORMING ARTS

MUSIC

Bargemusic.

A re-outfitted harbor barge with a fabulous view of the Manhattan skyline keeps chamber music groups busy yearround. | Fulton Ferry Landing,Old Fulton and Furman Sts., Brooklyn Heights | 11201 | 718/624–2083 | www.bargemusic.org | Subway: A, C to High St.; 2, 3 to Clark St.

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Exploring | Where to Eat | Galleries | Nightlife | Shopping

A downhill walk from Brooklyn Heights is the area called DUMBO (Down Under the Manhattan Bridge Overpass). It was once known as Fulton Landing, after the inventor and engineer Robert Fulton, who introduced steamboat ferry service from Brooklyn to Manhattan in 1814.

Factories and dry-goods warehouses thrived here until the Manhattan Bridge was completed in 1909. DUMBO then fell on hard times, but since the 1970s artists have been drawn by the historic warehouses for use as spacious studios. Today the area is full of luxury condos, art galleries, and small businesses.

The Fulton Ferry Landing’s view of Manhattan and the Brooklyn Bridge makes it a favorite site for wedding photos; the New York Water Taxi stops here as well. When all that sightseeing makes you hungry, walk uphill to the always excellent, always crowded, Grimaldi’s Pizzeria and the Brooklyn Ice Cream Factory. Wander the empty, old cobblestone streets for photo ops (try to frame the Empire State Building within the anchorage of the Manhattan Bridge), and visit the art galleries and boutiques.

EXPLORING DUMBO

Empire Fulton Ferry Park.

This charming 9-acre park is a great place for a riverside picnic or to just enjoy the view. The large playground includes a replica of a boat for make-believe voyages across the East River. From April to October the park is home to a wide range of arts performances, and on Thursday nights in July and August, Movies with a View projects New York classic films on an outdoor screen with no cover charge. | NewDock St. at Water St., DUMBO | 11201 | 718/858–4708 | nysparks.state.ny.us | Free | Daily dawn–dusk | Subway: A, C to High St.; F to York St.

WHERE TO EAT IN DUMBO

Grimaldi’s Pizzeria.

$ | PIZZA | This classic New York–style parlor serves excellent pizza pies from its coal ovens. Although sometimes inconsistent, when they’re good, the thin crisp

crust is slightly blackened, and the fresh mozzarella oozes satisfyingly. Grimaldi’s popularity allows them to be picky: no slices, no reservations, no credit cards, and no empty tables (expect a wait). Impatient foodies have been known to phone in a to-go order, swoop past the lines, and then enjoy their pizza in the nearby Brooklyn Bridge Park. | 19 Old Fulton St., between Front and Water Sts., DUMBO | 11201 | 718/858–4300 | www.grimaldis.com | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | Subway: A, C to High St.; 2, 3 to Clark St.; F to York St.

River Café.

$$$$ | NEW AMERICAN | The River Café’s incredible views of the Manhattan skyline across the way, lush flowers, and live piano music make it a waterfront favorite for romantic meals, marriage proposals, fancy birthdays, and special celebrations. The menu offers a contemporary take on local and exotic ingredients. For the ultimate experience, snag a window seat and try the chef’s sixcourse tasting menu ($125 per person). Gentlemen: jackets are required after 5 pm. | 1 Water St., near Old Fulton St., DUMBO | 11201 | 718/522–5200 | www.rivercafe.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: F to York St.; A, C to High St.; 2, 3 to Clark St.

Vinegar Hill House.

$$ | NEW AMERICAN | In an offbeat enclave on the edge of DUMBO called Vinegar Hill, this relative newcomer to Brooklyn’s dining scene has formed a fiercely loyal following. Foodies trek out to its rustic-chic dining room for well-prepared seasonal food and cozy ambience. Favorites include the moist and crispy cast-iron chicken and ovenroasted octopus. | 72 Hudson Ave., between Front and Water Sts., DUMBO | 11201 | 718/522–1018 | www.vinegarhillhouse.com | Reservations not accepted | AE, MC, V | No lunch weekdays| Subway: F to York St.

GALLERIES IN DUMBO

No trip to DUMBO would be complete without some gallery hopping—most are open afternoons Wednesday or Thursday through Sunday. The DUMBO Arts Center (DAC | 30 Washington St., between Water and Plymouth Sts. | 11201 | 718/694–0831 | www.dumboartscenter.org) exhibits contemporary art in a 3,000-square-foot gallery.

Inside a 6,000-square-foot restored boiler building, Smack Mellon Studios (92 Plymouth St., at Washington St. | 11201 | 718/834–8761 | www.smackmellon.org) exhibits up-and-coming artists, and nurtures them with studio space and other support. At exhibition space and design shop

Spring (126a Front St. | 11201 | 718/222–1054 | www.spring3d.net) you can view contemporary art, then satisfy your shopping urges with quirky home goods.

Don’t miss the annual DUMBO Arts Festival (dumboartsfestival.com) in September, with three artand music-packed days in the area’s galleries, open studios, warehouses, parks, and streets.

NIGHTLIFE IN DUMBO

Galapagos Art Space.

Performances here could almost take a backseat to the unique architecture of supper-club red banquettes floating above a huge lagoon of water. (Hold on to your purse!) Thankfully, the theater, music, and performance art is dynamic enough to grab your attention. | 16 Main St., DUMBO | 11201 | 718/222–8500 | www.galapagosartspace.com | Ticket prices vary | Opening times vary | Subway: F to York St.; A, C to High St.

reBar.

Occupying several rooms inside a former factory, this cavernous industrial space does multiple duty as bar, lounge, indie movie theater, gastropub, and supper club. Sample one of its 15 brews and vivacious vibe under terracotta ceilings and antique chandeliers. | 147 Front St., DUMBO | 11201 | 718/766–9110 | www.rebarnyc.com| Subway: F to York St.; A, C to High St.

Superfine.

The huge orange pool table takes center stage for the young crowd at this sprawling restaurant and bar at the base of the Manhattan Bridge. Rotating artwork, exposedbrick walls lined with tall windows, sunken secondhand chairs, and mellow music (including a bluegrass brunch on Sunday) make for a distinctive scene. | 126 Front St., between Jay and Pearl Sts., DUMBO | 11201 | 718/243– 9005 | Closed Mon. | Subway: F to York St.

SHOPPING IN DUMBO

At Jacques Torres Chocolate (66 Water St. | 11201 |

718/875–9772 | www.mrchocolate.com) you’ll feel like Charlie getting a peek at the Oompa Loompas as you peer into the small factory while munching on a few unusually flavored chocolate bonbons and sipping a thick, rich cup of hot chocolate. (For the latter, try the “wicked” flavor, spiked with chipotle peppers and cinnamon.)

Don’t skip the adjacent ice-cream shop, for a treat of

mango sorbet or a scoop of caramel-rum vanilla served sandwich-style between two chocolate-chip cookies.

Forget the touristy “I Heart NY” shirts. Pick up souvenirs they’ll actually wear at Neighborhoodies (26 Jay St. |

11201 | 718/243–2265 | www.neighborhoodies.com |

Weekdays 10–6), where locals swear allegiance by emblazoning sweatshirts and other clothing with their favorite nabe. The Brooklyn branch allows you to instantly create custom pieces.

Blueberi (143 Front St., DUMBO | 11201 | 718/422–7724

| www.blueberi.net) is a sleek boutique with vintage and contemporary designer wear, shoes, and accessories hailing from the five boroughs as well as the faraway corners of the world. Striking window displays make it near impossible not to pop in for at least a browse.

powerHouse Arena (37 Main St., DUMBO | 11201 | 718/666–3049 | www.powerhousearena.com) is a definite must-stop in the neighborhood for culture hawks and bookworms. This stunning 5,000-square-foot space with soaring 24-foot ceilings, glass frontage, and amphitheaterstyle seating does multiple duty as gallery, boutique, bookstore, and performance space.

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Where to Eat | Galleries | Nightlife | Shopping

For much of the 20th century this industrial area on the East River was home to a mix of Latin Americans, Poles, Hasidic Jews, and factories. Then, as Manhattan rents rose in the 1990s, artists, misfits, and indie rockers migrated across on the L train to transform the neighborhood into a creative bohemian center.

Today Williamsburg’s main drag of Bedford Avenue is a veritable catwalk of fabulously dressed starving artists and wealthy hipsters on their way from the L train to a range of stylish bars and clubs, artists’ studios, vintage stores, and costly boutiques. Meanwhile, the area’s young families and migrating Manhattanites head to one of the many posh restaurants near the Williamsburg Bridge.

Note that the shops and attractions listed here are spread out, so be prepared to walk a few blocks on generally safe (though sometimes graffitied and abandoned) blocks filled with former factories.

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WHERE TO EAT IN WILLIAMSBURG

The Bedford.

$$ | NEW AMERICAN | With its farm-to-table philosophy, this newly opened restaurant offers superb market-fresh interpretations of American mainstays such as pastureraised burgers with Gorgonzola cheese, charred lamb ribs, and cornmeal-crusted catfish. The seemingly slapdash aesthetics of the two rooms features planked floors, reclaimed wood benches, repurposed U.S. Army field desks, and vintage school chairs. There’s a good selection of craft beer and organic wines, poured out to a rock-and- roll soundtrack. | 110 Bedford Ave., at N.11th St., Williamsburg | 11211 | 718/302–1002 | www.thebedfordonbedford.com | AE, MC, V| Subway: L to Bedford Ave.

Diner.

$$ | AMERICAN | Tucked inside a 1927 dining car, this restaurant serves simple seasonal fare and so many specials that your waiter scrawls their names on the paper tablecloth to help you remember them all. Save room for the intense flourless chocolate cake. | 85 Broadway, at Berry St., Williamsburg | 11211 | 718/486–3077 | www.dinernyc.com | Reservations not accepted | AE, MC, V | Subway: J, M, Z to Marcy Ave.; L to Bedford Ave.

Dressler.

$$$ | AMERICAN | The critically acclaimed Dressler has a modern menu full of meaty foods and an impressive wine list, served in a refined setting—a classic example of the “New Brooklyn Cuisine.” One standout is the braised lamb shank, served with pearled barley, roasted tomato, and Swiss chard. | 149 Broadway, between Bedford and Driggs Aves., Williamsburg | 11211 | 718/384–6343 | www.dresslernyc.com | AE, MC, V | No lunch weekdays | Subway: J, M, Z to Marcy Ave.; L to Bedford Ave.

DuMont.

$$ | AMERICAN | Slide into a candlelit leather booth and order what is perhaps the best mac ’n cheese in the city, served bubbling hot and punctuated with (optional) smoky bacon. The juicy burgers, which also have a large fan club, are best enjoyed at a table in the charming back garden. |

432 Union Ave., between Metropolitan Ave. and Devoe St., Williamsburg | 11211 | 718/486–7717 | www.dumontrestaurant.com | AE, MC, V | Subway: L to Lorimer St.

Fatty Cue.

$$ | SOUTHEAST ASIAN | This offshoot of Fatty Crab in the West Village features the similarly quirky aesthetics in its series of low-lighted, low-ceilinged rooms where the decibel level is as high as the enjoyment of chowing on deliciously juicy smoked fare with a Southeast Asian twist. Locally sourced meats and fish are thrown into two Ole Hickory smokers and rubbed with unique flavors, resulting in a delicious medley of snacks and more substantial dishes. Favorites include pork ribs with smoked-fish palm syrup and Indonesian long pepper, and the beef brisket with chili jam, aioli, bao (a Vietnamese steamed bun filled with meat or vegetables), pickled red onion, and bone broth. | 91 S. 6th St., at Berry St., Williamsburg | 11211 | 718/599–3090 | www.fattycue.com | AE, MC, V| Subway: L to Bedford Ave.

Fette Sau.

$ | SOUTHERN | It may surprise you to come to a former auto-body repair shop to eat meat, but the funky building and outside courtyard seem just right for some serious ’cue. Here a huge wood-and-gas smoker delivers wellsmoked brisket, sausages, ribs, and even duck, ordered by the pound. Avoid the disappointing salads and sides, and instead order some of the more than 40 American whiskeys and 10 microbrews. Come early, as tables fill up quick, and even with 700 pounds of meat a night, the good stuff sometimes runs out by 9 pm. | 354 Metropolitan Ave., between Havemeyer and Roebling Sts., Williamsburg | 11211 | 718/963–3404 | fettesaubbq.com | Reservations not accepted | MC, V | No lunch weekdays | Subway: L to Lorimer St.

La Superior.

$$$ | MEXICAN | Serving some of Brooklyn’s best Mexican grub this side of the Red Hook ball fields, La Superior melds Mexican street food with the Williamsburg ethic. The service is slapdash and the decor is unremarkable, but the food—from beef-tongue tacos to pescadillas (fish quesadillas)—always delivers. Don’t be surprised if your waiter has a seat at your table while discussing the menu. |

295 Berry St., Williamsburg | 11211 | 718/388–5988 | lasuperiornyc.com | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | Subway: L to Bedford Ave.; J, M, Z to Marcy Ave.

Marlow & Sons.

$$ | AMERICAN | It may look like a gourmet food store, but it’s also a buzzy restaurant. Slurp some oysters and enjoy a wedge of delicate tortilla Española in the wood-paneled dining room, or choose one of many daily specials. Don’t miss the adventurous cocktails, so good they’ll almost make you forget about the uncomfortable wooden seating. After dinner, shop for delicacies like wildflower honey and aromatic bitters. | 81 Broadway, at Berry St., Williamsburg | 11211 | 718/384–1441 | www.marlowandsons.com | Reservations not accepted | AE, MC, V | Subway: J, M, Z to Marcy Ave.; L to Bedford Ave.

Peter Luger Steak House.

$$$$ | STEAK | Long before Brooklyn was chic, even the snobbiest Manhattanites flocked to Luger’s. Other steak houses have more elegant ambience, bigger wine lists, and less brusque service, but the steak makes the trip to this 122-year-old temple of red meat worth it. Three tips: bring a buddy (individual steaks are available, but porterhouse is served only for two, three, or four), make a reservation (prime slots fill up more than a month in advance), and bring lots of cash—Luger’s doesn’t take plastic. The lunch-only burger is beloved among locals. |

178 Broadway, at Driggs Ave., Williamsburg | 11211 | 718/387–7400 | www.peterluger.com | Reservations essential | No credit cards | Subway: J, M, Z to Marcy Ave.