New_York_City_2012_-_Fodor_39_s

Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum.

Prowl the shelves here for intriguing urban oddments and ornaments, like sculptural tableware, rare design books, colorful Band-Aids from Cynthia Rowley, and ceramic versions of iconic New York deli coffee cups. | 2 E. 91st St., at 5th Ave., Upper East Side | 10128 | 212/849–8355 | Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St.

Metropolitan Museum of Art Shop.

This sprawling shop offers a phenomenal book selection, as well as posters, art videos, and computer programs. Reproductions of statuettes and other objets fill the gleaming cases in every branch. Don’t miss the jewelry selection, with its Byzantineand Egyptian-inspired baubles. | 1000 5th Ave., at E. 82nd St., Upper East Side | 10028 | 212/570–3894 | Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St.

Museum of the City of New York.

Satisfy your curiosity about New York City’s past, present, or future with the terrific selection of books, cards, toys, and photography posters. | 1220 5th Ave., at E. 103rd St., Upper East Side | 10029 | 212/534–1672 | Subway: 6 to 103rd St.

Neue Galerie.

Like the museum, this bookshop focuses on German, Austrian, and Central European art. The solid selection includes catalogs, literature, and decorative items, including lovely wrapping papers. Many designs found in the collection have been reproduced as part of the museum’s own Neue Haus line. | 1048 5th Ave., between E. 85th and E. 86th Sts., Upper East Side | 10028 | 212/628–6200 | Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St.

Shoes, Handbags, and Leather Goods

Billy Martin’s.

Urban cowboys flock here for high-quality hand-tooled and custom-made boots that count Neil Young and Billy Bob Thornton among their fans. To complete the look, you can add a suede shirt or a turquoise-and-silver belt. | 1034 3rd Ave., between 61st and 62nd Sts., Upper East Side | 10065 | 212/861–3100 | Subway: N, R, 4, 5, 6 to 59th St.

Church’s English Shoes.

Beloved by bankers and lawyers, these shoes are indisputably of high quality. You could choose something highly polished for an embassy dinner, a loafer or crepesole suede ankle boot for a weekend, or even a black-and- white spectator style worthy of Fred Astaire. | 689 Madison Ave., at E. 62nd St., Upper East Side | 10065 | 212/758– 5200 | Subway: N, R, 4, 5, 6 to 59th St.

Devi Kroell.

You may have spotted her snakeskin hobo on celebs such as Halle Berry and Ashley Olsen. This serene space is a perfect backdrop for the designer’s luxury handbags and shoes, which are crafted from premium leather. Roomy shoulder bags come in python and calf leather, and evening bags have a touch of sparkle. There’s also a selection of jewelry and scarves. | 717 Madison Ave., between E. 63rd and E. 64th Sts., Upper East Side | 10065 | 212/644–4499 | Subway: N, R, 4, 5, 6 to 59th St.

Hermès.

This legendary French retailer is best known for its iconic handbags, the Kelly and the Birkin, named for Grace Kelly and Jane Birkin, as well as its silk scarves and neckties.

True to its roots, Hermès still stocks saddles and other equestrian items in addition to a line of beautifully simple separates. | 691 Madison Ave., at E. 62nd St., Upper East Side | 10021 | 212/751–3181 | Subway: N, R, 4, 5, 6 to 59th St./Lexington Ave.

Jimmy Choo.

Pointy toes, low vamps, narrow heels, ankle-wrapping straps—these British-made shoes are undeniably vampy, and sometimes more comfortable than they look. | 716 Madison Ave., between E. 63rd and E. 64th Sts., Upper East Side | 10021 | 212/759–7078 | Subway: M to 68th St./Hunter College.

John Lobb.

If you truly want to be well heeled, pick up a pair of these luxury shoes, whose prices start at around $1,100. Owned by Hermès, John Lobb offers classic styles such as oxfords, loafers, boots, and slippers. | 680 Madison Ave., between E. 61st and E. 62nd Sts., Upper East Side | 10021 | 212/888–9797 | Subway: N, R, 4, 5, 6 to 59th St.

Judith Leiber.

A door handle twinkling with Swarovski crystals signals the entrance to the Kingdom of Sparkle. Instantly recognizable handbags are completely frosted in crystals, from simple, colorful boxes to minaudières shaped like pigs or stars. Crystals also spangle the heels of satin pumps and the bows of oversize (to cut the glare?) sunglasses. | 680 Madison Ave., at E. 61st St., Upper East Side | 10021 | 212/223–2999 | Subway: 4, 5, 6 to E. 59th St.

Robert Clergerie.

Although best known for its chunky, comfy wedges, this French brand is not without its sense of fun. The sandal

selection includes beaded starfish shapes, and for winter the ankle boots have killer heels but the soles are padded. |

19 E. 62nd St., between 5th and Madison Aves., Upper East Side | 10065 | 212/207–8600 | Subway: R to 5th Ave.

Tod’s.

Diego Della Valle’s coveted driving moccasins, casual loafers, and boots are the top choice for jet-setters who prefer low-key, logo-free luxury goods. Though most of the women’s selection is made up of low-heel or flat styles, an increasing number of high heels are bent on driving sales, rather than cars. The handbags and satchels have the same fine craftsmanship. | 650 Madison Ave., near E. 60th St., Upper East Side | 10022 | 212/644–5945 | Subway: N, R to 5th Ave./59th St.

Home Decor

Sachin and Babi for Ankasa.

Owners Sachin and Babi Ahluwalia used to source textiles for luxury designers like Oscar de la Renta. Now they are using that same design sensibility to produce a gorgeous line of housewares and accessories, which are globally inspired. The bedding is done in muted colors such as slate and duck-egg blue. They’ve also recently launched a ready-to-wear collection for women that has a downtown, edgy look. | 135 E. 65th, between Park and Lexington Aves., Upper East Side | 10021 | 212/861–6800 | Subway: 4, 6 to E. 68th St./Hunter College.

Wine

Best Cellars.

In a novel move, the wines here are organized by their characteristics (soft, luscious, juicy) rather than by region. Even better, the prices are amazingly low—the majority of the stock is less than $15 per bottle. | 1291 Lexington Ave., between E. 86th and E. 87th Sts., Upper East Side | 10028 | 212/426–4200 | Subway: 4, 5, 6 to 86th St.

THE UPPER WEST SIDE

Antiques and Collectibles

Maxilla & Mandible.

It’s hard not to do a double take when you walk past this shop, which may have a human skeleton or a gigantic spider in its window display. Maxilla & Mandible bills itself as the “world’s first and only osteological store” and is run by a group of scientists. Goths love it for the ghoulish items (skulls, anyone?), but geeks will also appreciate the butterfly-specimen, shark-teeth, and resin bug bracelets. |

451 Columbus Ave., between W. 81st and W. 82nd Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/724–6173 | Subway: 1 to 79th St.

Books and Stationery

Westsider Rare & Used Books.

This wonderfully crammed space is a lifesaver on the otherwise sparse Upper West Side. Squeeze in among the stacks of art books and fiction; clamber up the steep stairway and you’ll find all sorts of rare books. | 2246 Broadway, between W. 80th and W. 81st Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/362–0706 | Subway: 1 to 79th St.

Children’s Clothing

A Time for Children.

When you shop at this funky boutique, you’ll also be doing some good, as 100% of the profits go to the Children’s Aid Society. Choose from toys, books, and clothing, which includes classics such as Petit Bateau as well as cool vintage-inspired onesies. | 416 Amsterdam Ave., between W. 79th and W. 80th Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/724–7445 | Subway: 1 to 79th St.

Clothing

BOC.

Who needs to go downtown for cutting-edge designers? Short for Boutique on Columbus, this store has an industrial chic look, and the labels are just as sleek. Separates from Rebecca Taylor, Vivienne Westwood, and Alexander Wang all line the shelves. There’s also a small selection of candles and cosmetics. | 506 Amsterdam Ave., between W. 84th and W. 85th Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/362–5405 | Subway: 1, 2 to 86th St.

Allan & Suzi.

This consignment shop is the kind of place where you could score a vintage Pauline Trigere dress, or your next Halloween costume, if you like ’70s go-go boots and massive wigs. The goods here veer toward the slightly wacky, but in between the flamboyant pieces, browsers will find real gems like past-season Zac Posen, Prada, and Yves Saint Laurent, as well as vintage David Bowie concert T-shirts and gently worn Jimmy Choos. | 506 Amsterdam Ave., between W. 84th and W. 85th Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/580–8202 | Subway: 1 to 79th St.

Intermix.

Whether you’re looking for the perfect daytime dress, pair of J Brand jeans, or a puffer coat that won’t make you look

like the Michelin man, Intermix offers a well-edited mix of emerging and established designers. Expect to see designs from DVF, Chloe, and Missoni. | 210 Columbus Ave., between W. 69th and W. 70th Sts., Upper West Side | 10023 | 212/769–9116 | Subway: 1, 2, 3 to 72nd St.

Mint.

Trendy dresses that won’t break the bank are what Mint is all about. The collection includes BB Dakota, Susana Monaco, and Joe’s Jeans. The walls are painted, of course, in mint. | 448 Columbus Ave., between W. 81st and W. 82nd Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/724– 7445 | Subway: 1 to 79th St.

Shoes, Handbags, and Leather Goods

Tani.

Fashionable Upper West Side ladies love this shoe store for its huge selection and patient staff. Tani’s selection is mostly classic-with-a-twist, and shoppers will find slightly off-the-radar brands such as Bensimon, Mugumi Ochi, and Butter. | 2020 Broadway, between 69th and 70th Sts., Upper West Side | 10023 | 212/787–1700 | Subway: 1, 2, 3 to 72nd St.

Wine

Acker Merrall & Condit.

Founded in 1820 and billing itself as America’s oldest wine shop, Acker Merrall & Condit carries a superb selection of red burgundies. There’s also a wide range of rare and fine wines. | 160 W. 72nd St., between Amsterdam and Columbus Aves., Upper West Side | 10023 | 212/873– 4361 | Subway: 1, 2, 3 to 72nd St.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Main Table of Contents

THE SCENE

Planner

Spotlight on Lower Manhattan

Spotlight on SoHo, NoLIta, and Little Italy Spotlight on the East Village and Lower East Side

Spotlight on Greenwich Village, with the West Village and the Meatpacking District

Spotlight on Union Square with Gramercy, Murray Hill, and the Flatiron District

Spotlight on Midtown West and Chelsea Spotlight on Midtown East/Upper East Side Spotlight on The Upper West Side/Harlem

RESTAURANTS BY NEIGHBORHOOD

Chinatown

Financial District

TriBeCa

SoHo

NoLita

Little Italy

East Village

Lower East Side

Chelsea

Greenwich Village

Meatpacking District

West Village

Flatiron District

Gramercy Park

Murray Hill

Union Square

Midtown East

Midtown West

Upper East Side

Upper West Side

Harlem

Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Planner

Spotlight on: Lower Manhattan | SoHo, NoLIta, and Little Italy | East Village and Lower East Side | Greenwich Village, with the West Village and the Meatpacking District | Union Square with Gramercy, Murray Hill, and the Flatiron District | Midtown West and Chelsea | Midtown East/Upper East Side | The Upper West Side/Harlem

Updated by Adeena Sussman

Ready to take a bite out of New York? Hope you’ve come hungry. In a city where creativity is expressed in many ways, the food scene takes center stage, with literally thousands of ways to get an authentic taste of what Gotham is all about. Whether they’re lining up at street stands, gobbling down legendary deli and diner grub, or chasing a coveted reservation at the latest celebrity-chef venue, New Yorkers are a demanding yet appreciative audience.

Every neighborhood offers temptations high, low, and in between, meaning there’s truly something for every taste, whim, and budget. No matter how you approach dining out here, you can’t go wrong. Planning a day of shopping among the glittering boutique flagships along Fifth and Madison? Stop into one of the Upper East Side’s storied restaurants for a repast among the ladieswho lunch. Clubbing in the Meatpacking District? Tuck into a meal at eateries as trendy as their patrons. Craving authentic ethnic? From food trucks to hidden joints, there are almost more choices than there are appetites. Recent years have also seen entire food categories, from ramen to meatballs to mac ’n cheese, riffed upon and turned into fetishistic obsessions.

Amid newfound economic realities, there’s been a revived appreciation for value, meaning you can tap into walletfriendly choices at every end of the spectrum. At many restaurants you’ll also notice an almost religious reverence for seasonal cuisine. And don’t forget—New York is still home to more celebrity chefs than any other city. Your chances of running into your favorite cookbook author, Food Network celeb, or paparazzi-friendly chef are higher, adding even more star wattage to a restaurant scene with an already through-the-roof glamour quotient. Ready, set, eat. Rest assured, this city will do its part to satisfy your appetite.

PLANNER

EATING OUT STRATEGY

Where should we eat? With thousands of Manhattan eateries competing for your attention, it may seem like a daunting question. But fret not—our expert writers and editors have done most of the legwork. The 160-plus selections here represent the best this city has to offer— from hot dogs to haute cuisine. Sample local flavor in the neighborhood features. Or find a review quickly, listed alphabetically by neighborhood. Dive in and enjoy!

CHILDREN

Though it’s unusual to see children in the dining rooms of Manhattan’s most elite restaurants, dining with youngsters in New York does not have to mean culinary exile. Many of the restaurants reviewed in this chapter are excellent choices for families, and are marked with a K symbol.

RESERVATIONS

It’s still a good idea to plan ahead. Some renowned restaurants are booked weeks or even months in advance. If that’s the case, you can get lucky at the last minute if you’re flexible—and friendly. Most restaurants keep a few tables open for walk-ins and VIPs. Show up for dinner early (5:30 pm) or late (after 10 pm), and politely inquire about any last-minute vacancies or cancellations. Occasionally, an eatery may take your credit-card number and ask you to call the day before your scheduled meal to reconfirm: don’t forget or you could lose out, or possibly be charged for your oversight.

WHAT TO WEAR

When in the nation’s style capital, do as the natives do: dress up to eat out. Whatever your style, dial it up a notch. Have some fun while you’re at it. Pull out the clothes you’ve been saving for a special occasion and get glamorous. Unfair as it is, the way you look can influence how you’re treated—and where you’re seated. Generally speaking, jeans and a button-down shirt will suffice at most tableservice restaurants in the $ to $$ range. Moving up from there, some pricier restaurants require jackets, and some insist on ties. In reviews, we note dress only when a jacket or jacket and tie are required. If you have doubts, call the restaurant and ask.

TIPPING AND TAXES

In most restaurants, tip the waiter 15%–20%. (To figure out a 20% tip quickly, just move the decimal point one place to the left on your total and double that amount.) Bills for parties of six or more sometimes include the tip already. Tip at least $1 per drink at the bar, and $1 for each coat checked. Never tip the maître d’ unless you’re out to impress your guests or expect to pay another visit soon.

SMOKING

Smoking is prohibited in all enclosed public spaces in New York City, including restaurants and bars.

HOURS

New Yorkers seem ready to eat at any hour. Many restaurants stay open between lunch and dinner, some offer late-night seating, and still others serve around the clock. Restaurants that serve breakfast often do so until noon or later. Restaurants in the East Village, the Lower East Side, SoHo, TriBeCa, and Greenwich Village are likely to remain open late, whereas Midtown spots and those in the Theater and Financial districts and uptown generally close earlier. Unless otherwise noted, the restaurants listed in this guide are open daily for lunch and dinner.

PRICES

If you’re watching your budget, be sure to ask the price of the daily specials recited by the waiter. The charge for specials at some restaurants is noticeably out of line with the other prices on the menu. Beware of the $10 bottle of water; ask for tap water instead. And always review your bill.

If you eat early or late, you may be able to take advantage of a prix-fixe deal not offered at peak hours. Most upscale restaurants offer great lunch deals, with special menus at cut-rate prices designed to give customers a true taste of the place.

Credit cards are widely accepted, but many restaurants (particularly smaller ones downtown) accept only cash. If you plan to use a credit card, it’s a good idea to confirm that it is acceptable when making reservations or before sitting down to eat.

Some restaurants are marked with a price range ($$–$$$, for example). This indicates one of two things: either the average cost straddles two categories, or if you order strategically, you can get out for less than most diners

spend.

WHAT IT COSTS AT DINNER

RESTAURANTS

¢under $10

$$10–$17

Price per person for a median main course or equivalent combination of smaller dishes. Note: if a restaurant offersonly prix-fixe (set-price) meals, it hasbeen given the price category that reflectsthe full prix-fixe price.

CHECK BEFORE YOU GO

The nature of the restaurant industry means that places open and close in a New York minute. It’s always a good idea to phone ahead and make sure your restaurant is still turning tables.

FOOD COURT RENAISSANCE

Everywhere you turn, a new food court is opening. But these are not shopping-mall-style clusters of franchised eateries. Because we’re talking New York, you can expect high-quality dining, a boon for hungry pavement-pounders looking for food, fast—not fast food.

At the Plaza Food Hall (1 W. 59th St., at 5th Ave. |

212/986–9260) in the basement of the Plaza Hotel, celeb chef Todd English oversees a series of mini-restaurants, each with its own counter with seating ideal for a quick snack or a full-fledged meal. Entry is a little confusing; though the place is made up of individual food concepts, you’ll be seated by a hostess at any available counter. One you’re settled, get up and survey your choices, then sit down and place one order from your waiter. There’s a glistening raw bar, a burger joint, and a wood-burning pizza station where you can sample some of English’s iconic pies, such as fig and prosciutto. It’s one of the most varied and affordable daytime food options in an area of town that can still feel like a lunchtime wasteland.

The cavernous Eataly (200 5th Ave., at 23rd St. | 646/398– 5100), from Mario Batali & Co., is a temple of all things Italian. Ignore the overpriced produce market by the front entrance and make a beeline for La Piazza for sandwiches made with meticulously sourced ingredients (you can eat them at the standup tables nearby); a full-service pizza and pasta restaurant; a raw bar and fish eatery; and a spot for quaffing wines by the glass and beers on tap. There’s also a corridor that’s a gourmand’s dream, with Italian chocolates, coffees, gelati, and pastries.

Adjacent to the new Eventi hotel sits FoodParc (851 6th Ave., at W. 30th St. | 646/600–7140), a high-design assemblage of food stations perfect for the lunchtime rush and an unhurried, casual dinner. At the 3Bs counter you can craft a custom burger, pair it with addictive snacks like baconand cheddar-stuffed hash browns—then top it off with a shake, malted, or egg cream. RedFarm Stand serves dumplings (try the shrimp, bacon, and watercress version) and other fare with a menu devised by Chinatown Brasserie dim sum master Joe Ng, and Fornetti (the weakest link in the bunch) offers Italian standards like subs, sandwiches, and pastas. In a boon to outdoor seating, summertime brings a huge outdoor plaza with room to spread out and watch a giant Jumbotron TV hanging above.

SPOTLIGHT ON LOWER MANHATTAN

A wave of development and attractive pricing have meant thousands of new residents in Lower Manhattan, fueling an up-and-coming—yet still slow-moving—neighborhood scene.

The most visible changes? Restaurants in and around the Financial District no longer adhere to banker’s hours, and formal dining rooms have been outnumbered by casual cafés and wine bars. On the pedestrian-only Stone Street, throngs of young professionals gather for after-work drinks and dinner at nearby bistros, oyster bars, and steak houses.

To the north, Chinatown beckons adventurous diners with restaurants representing numerous regional cuisines of China, including Cantonese-, Szechuan-, Hunan-, Fujian-, Shanghai-, and Hong Kong–style cooking. Malaysian and Vietnamese restaurants also have taken root here, and the neighborhood continues to grow rapidly, encroaching into what was Little Italy.

To the west, TriBeCa still holds an air of exclusivity, though glamorous dining rooms in converted warehouses have now been joined by more casual spots with later hours.

TRIBECA BRUNCH

Iron Chef winner Marc Forgione serves indulgent brunches in the warm, wood-and-brick dining room of his eponymous restaurant (134 Reade St., between West Broadway and Hudson). Try the Eggs Benny, lavished in a preserved-

lemon Hollandaise; or the over-the-top sliders featuring suckling pig braised in beer, butter, and bacon fat. If you’re looking for a more elegant atmosphere, try Capsouto Frères (451 Washington St., near Watts St. | 212/966– 4900), a landmark French bistro that makes the city’s best sweet and savory soufflés. We love the praline soufflé with hazelnut crème anglaise.

CHINATOWN CHOWDOWN

With more than 200 restaurants in just under 2 square mi, deciding where to dine may take longer than the actual meal. Here are our favorite places to enjoy Chinatown’s diverse bounty.

Cantonese: For Hong Kong–style dim sum, head to

Ping’s Seafood (22 Mott St., near Worth St. | 212/602– 9988) or HSF (46 Bowery, near Canal St. | 212/374– 1319). Both spots are crowded but offer addictive fare like turnip cakes, steamed pork buns, and fried sesame-seed balls.

One of the best deals in Chinatown is at Dumpling House

(118 Eldridge St., near Broome St. | 212/625–8008), where sizzling pork-and-chive dumplings are four for a buck.

Malaysian: There’s something for everyone at New Malaysia (48 Bowery, near Canal St. | 212/964–0284), like roti flatbread with curry and delicious red-bean and coconut-milk drinks.

Shanghainese: The city’s best soup dumplings—doughy pouches filled with ground pork and meaty broth—are ripe for the slurping at Joe’s Shanghai (9 Pell St., near Bowery | 212/233–8888).

Szechuan: Foodies go ga-ga for the twice-cooked pork in bean sauce and scallion pancakes at Grand Sichuan

(125 Canal St., at Chrystie St. | 212/625–9212). At the Peking Duck House (28 Mott St., near Mosco St. |

212/227–1810), don’t miss the stunning signature dish. Crispy-skin Peking duck comes with pancakes, scallions, cucumbers, and hoisin sauce.

FINANCIAL DISTRICT’S RESTO ROW

Nestled alongside skyscrapers and the towering New York Stock Exchange, Stone Street is a two-block restaurant oasis that feels more like a village than the center of the financial universe. After the market closes, Wall Streeters head to Ulysses’ (95 Pearl St., near Hanover Sq. |

212/482–0400), a popular pub with 19 beers on tap and more than 50 bottled beers.

Clerks might stop in for a broccoli rabe–and–sausage pie (they don’t do slices) at Adrienne’s Pizza Bar (54 Stone St., near Hanover Sq. | 212/248–3838) while high-rolling brokers continue down the block to Harry’s Steak (1 Hanover Sq., at Stone St. | 212/785–9200) for a dry-aged porterhouse and a reserve-collection cabernet from a 2,800-strong cellar. Those with a sweet tooth end up at

Financier Patisserie (62 Stone St., between Mill La. and Hanover Sq. | 212/344–5600), pictured below.

DIM SUM DO’S AND DON’TS

Weekends in Chinatown are synonymous with one thing: dim sum. There may be newer, trendier spots, but Jing Fong (20 Elizabeth St., 2nd fl., between Bayard and Canal Sts. is a classic spot worth visiting. Take the seats you’re given (most likely at a communal table) and simply let your appetite guide your ordering from the jaw-dropping array of dishes that roll by on carts. Point at your choices, then hand over your card to be stamped; the total will be tallied at the end and you’ll pay on the way out. Pace yourself—it’s easy to get full fast. And don’t be afraid to ask questions; the cart attendants often know more English than they let on! Top choices include shrimp folded inside a floppy giant noodle and topped with a squirt of sweet soy; plump spinach dumplings (one of the few choices for vegetarians), and the elusive, spongy barbecue pork buns —pounce if you find them, and you won’t be sorry.

SPOTLIGHT ON SOHO, NOLITA, AND LITTLE ITALY

In this high-rent neighborhood dining options are somewhat limited, resulting in crowded restaurants with steep prices. But snacking is a great strategy for experiencing the local flavor without buyer’s remorse.

Longtime New Yorkers lament that SoHo has evolved from a red-hot art district into a big-brand outdoor mall. Shoppers engulf the neighborhood on weekends like angry bees, turning Lafayette Street into a buzzing hive of commerce. As a result, popular spots can be tough to get into during prime times.

In NoLita, the trendy next-door neighborhood of indie boutiques and restaurants, the spirit of old SoHo prevails. Modest eateries are squeezed between boutiques featuring products from up-and-coming designers.

If you want authentic Italian food, don’t head south to Little Italy: most of the pasta factories along the main strip of Mulberry Street have developed reputations as tourist traps. As with SoHo, it’s a better bet to snack your way through this area.

FRESH-BAKED

Follow the beguiling scent of fresh-baked bread to

Balthazar Bakery (80 Spring St., near Crosby St. |

212/965–1785), where you’ll find baguettes, boules, batards, brioche, and several other different breads. The bakery—an extension of Keith McNally’s always-packed Balthazar restaurant—boasts an extensive menu of panini, sandwiches, quiches, and homemade soups, plus newly added fresh breakfast egg dishes. The pastry chefs also turn out custom-made pastries, cakes, and cookies. Try the berry noisette tart or coconut cake, or keep it simple with a few of Balthazar Bakery’s buttery lemon or chocolate madeleines.

SOHO SIPS AND SNACKS

3 Quick Bites

Relax and refuel at one of these neighborhood haunts.

Cuban sandwich at Café Habana (17 Prince St., at Elizabeth St. | 212/625–2002): This popular pan-Latin dive also boasts excellent Mexican-style grilled corn and café con leche (with milk). The Cuban sandwich features roasted pork, ham, Swiss cheese, pickles, and chipotle mayo.

Tacos at La Esquina (106 Kenmare St. | 646/613–7100): Order tasty pulled chicken or char-grilled steak tacos and tortas to go from the counter-service taqueria, or squeeze into the small café around the corner for a bigger sit-down meal.

Apertivo at Emporio (231 Mott St., near Prince St. |

212/358–1707): Visit this cozy Italian restaurant at happy hour, weekdays 5 to 7 pm, when cocktails and wine come with free snacks. The daily selection may include olives, ricotta frittata, cheeses, pizzas, and cubed Italian ham.

ELEVATE YOUR COCKTAIL

CONSCIOUSNESS

The American cocktail renaissance is under way at Pegu Club (77 W. Houston St., near West Broadway | 212/473– 7348), where renowned mixologist Audrey Saunders developed impeccable modern cocktail recipes steeped in pre-Prohibition tradition.

Inspired by a 19th-century British officers club in Burma, the intimate second-floor lounge has a colonial aura, outfitted with palm trees, dark woods, and low-slung brown-velvet couches.

Since Pegu opened several years ago, many imitators have followed, but Saunders’s libations still hold their own, with fresh-squeezed juices and house infusions in every cocktail. Watching the barkeeps in their natty vests and shirtsleeves ply their trade making drinks like an Earl Grey martini with tea-infused gin, or the Jamaican Firefly, featuring fresh ginger beer with rum and lime, makes the bar a prime perch. Ice is hand-chipped, bitters and syrups are brewed on the premises, and the results show in every glass.

“You have to look at well-crafted cocktails as fine cuisine with elements of sweet, sour, bitter, and spicy,” Saunders says. “They’re not just fruit and booze. You need spices, herbs, and other ingredients to add complexity.”

AND FOR DESSERT …

Slip into MarieBelle (484 Broome St., between Wooster St. and West Broadway | 212/925–6999) to experience chocolate nirvana in a Parisian-style café setting. At the front of the shop you’ll find an assortment of artisanal chocolates filled with velvety ganache. But real chocoholics head to the Cacao Bar at the back of the store for MarieBelle’s überrich hot chocolate, crafted from ground cacao beans instead of cocoa powder, then mixed with boiling water (European-style) or steamed milk (Americanstyle). For an unusual treat, try the spicy hot chocolate—it has a real kick to it. Tea lovers will be delighted by MarieBelle’s diverse hand-blended selection. Not to worry if you’re visiting during the late spring or summer: skip the hot chocolate and cool off with MarieBelle’s Aztec iced chocolate—the warm-weather version of her decadent cacao elixir—or the house-made chocolate gelato.

SPOTLIGHT ON EAST VILLAGE AND LOWER EAST SIDE

With luxury condos stretching as far east as Avenue C, the East Village—once Manhattan’s edgiest enclave—has become yet another high-rent neighborhood. Nearby, the Lower East Side, home to generations of immigrant newcomers, has nearly completed a similar transformation.