New_York_City_2012_-_Fodor_39_s

trolley. A three-course vegetarian menu is also available. |

60 E. 65th St., between Madison and Park Aves., Upper East Side | 10065-7056 | 212/288–0033 | www.danielnyc.com | Reservations essential Jacket required | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. No lunch | Subway: 6 to 68th St./Hunter College .

Maya.

$$$ | MEXICAN | The upscale-hacienda appearance of this justifiably popular restaurant showcases some of the best Mexican food in the city, courtesy of pioneering Mexican chef Richard Sandoval. Begin with a fresh mango mojito, then tuck into delicious roasted corn soup with huitlacoche dumplings, stuffed poblano peppers, and smoky filet mignon taco with jalapeño escabeche. Finish with caramelized goat’s-milk crepes and cinnamon ice cream, and you’ll leave wearing a big grin. | 1191 1st Ave., between E. 64th and E. 65th Sts., Upper East Side | 10065-7108 | 212/585–1818 | www.modernmexican.com/mayany | Reservations essential | AE, D, DC, MC, V | No lunch | Subway: 6 to 68th St./Hunter College .

Park Avenue Summer/Autumn/Winter/Spring.

$$$ | AMERICAN | New York’s most self-consciously seasonal restaurant swaps out much more than its menu as temperatures change. Four times a year the restaurant— the formerly staid Park Avenue Café—shuts its doors for a head-to-toe makeover, switching, for instance, from a summery blond-wood beach-house motif to dark-wood- and-copper fall-foliage tones. Chef Craig Koketsu’s seasonal food lives up to the striking surroundings. Summer brings a bounty of fresh-shucked corn, with a big, juicy veal chop and heirloom tomatoes. Come autumn the kitchen turns its focus to mushrooms, truffles (on a flaky halibut fillet accompanied by a brioche-crusted poached egg), and game (local quail, big venison chops scattered with pomegranate and pumpkin seeds). Desserts, by award-winning pastry chef Richard Leach, include hard-to- resist elegant creations like sweet-corn ice cream with rhubarb, warm caramel, and popcorn. | 100 E. 63rd St., at Park Ave., Upper East Side | 10065-7310 | 212/644–1900 | www.parkavenyc.com | Reservations essential | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: F to Lexington Ave./63rd St.; 4, 5, 6 to 59th St.; N, R to 5th Ave./59th St.

Sushi of Gari.

$$$ | JAPANESE | Options at this popular sushi restaurant range from the ordinary (California roll) to such exotic choices as tuna with creamy tofu sauce, miso-marinated cod, or Japanese yellowtail with jalapeño. Japanese noodles (udon or soba) and meat dishes such as teriyaki and negimaki (scallions rolled in thinly sliced beef) are well prepared. Reservations are recommended. Another location at 370 Columbus Avenue gives Upper West Siders their udon fix. | 402 E. 78th St., at 1st Ave., Upper East Side | 10075-1676 | 212/517–5340 | www.sushiofgari.com | AE, MC, V | No lunch | Subway: 6 to 77th St.

UPPER WEST SIDE

Anchoring the dining experience in this section of town are the high-end restaurants at the Time Warner Center, which some call a “fine-dining food court.” Head farther uptown for cheaper eats, but also a burgeoning gourmet dining scene.

With Lincoln Center theatergoers, hungry shoppers, and visitors to Central Park nearby, chefs are finally waking up to the captive built-in audience of tourists and locals alike. The main avenues are indeed lined with restaurants, but until recently many of them have been mediocre. Now the better-known destination-dining spots beyond the Time Warner Center—among them Jean Georges, Picholine, Telepan, and Dovetail—have been joined by newcomers like Salumeria Rossi, Fatty Crab, and Ed’s Chowder, all second or third restaurants from well-known chefs. Brunch is still a good bet, too. The flaky scones and fluffy omelets at Sarabeth’s, not to mention blintzes and bagels at Barney Greengrass, are worth seeking out.

Asiate.

$$$$ | ASIAN | The unparalleled view is reason enough to visit Asiate’s pristine dining room, perched on the 35th floor of the Time Warner Center in the Mandarin Oriental Hotel. Artfully positioned tables and minimalist decor help direct eyes to the windows, which peer over Central Park. At night crystalline lights reflect in the glass, creating a magical effect. Young chef Brandon Kida creates contemporary dishes with an Asian influence. One of his signature dishes is soba noodles with Osetra caviar and wasabi cream; another standout is Wagyu beef tenderloin with smoked potato puree and braised short rib. Professional, attentive service helps foster an atmosphere of dreamlike luxury. The restaurant offers prix-fixe menus only, and an illustrious wine collection housing 2,000 bottles. | Time Warner Center,80 Columbus Circle, 35th fl., at W. 60th St., Upper West Side | 10023-5800 | 212/805–8881 | www.mandarinoriental.com/newyork/dining/asiate | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: A, B, C, D, 1 to 59th St./Columbus Circle .

Fodor’s Choice | Bar Boulud.

$$ | FRENCH | Acclaimed French chef Daniel Boulud, known for upscale New York City eateries Daniel and Café Boulud, shows diners his more casual side with this lively contemporary bistro and wine bar. The long, narrow space accommodates 100 people and has a 14-seat round table for special wine-theme tastings. An additional level has three rooms for larger parties. The menu emphasizes charcuterie, including terrines and pâtés designed by Parisian charcutier Gilles Verot, who relocated just to work with Boulud, as well as traditional French bistro dishes like steak frîtes and poulet rôti à l’ail (roast chicken with garlic mashed potatoes). The 500-bottle wine list is heavy on wines from Burgundy and the Rhône Valley. Wallet watchers won’t feel left out: a pretheater three-course menu starts at $42, and weekend brunch has two hearty courses plus coffee and dessert for $42. | 1900 Broadway, between 63rd and 64th Sts., Upper West Side | 10023-7004 | 212/595–0303 | www.barboulud.com | AE, DC, MC, V | Subway: 1 to 66th St./Lincoln Center; 1, A, C, B, D to 59th St./Columbus Circle .

Barney Greengrass.

$ | DELI | At this New York Jewish landmark brusque waiters send out stellar smoked salmon, sturgeon, and whitefish to a happy crowd packed to the gills at small Formica tables. Split a fish platter with bagels, cream cheese, and other fixings, or get your velvety nova scrambled with eggs and buttery caramelized onions. If you’re still hungry, go for a plate of cheese blintzes or the to-die-for chopped liver. Beware: the weekend brunch wait can exceed an hour. | 541 Amsterdam Ave., between W. 86th and W. 87th Sts., Upper West Side | 10024-2803 | 212/724–4707 | www.barneygreengrass.com | Reservations not accepted | No credit cards | Closed Mon. No dinner | Subway: 1, B, C to 86th St.

Big Nick’s.

$ | DINER | This cramped, 24-hour neighborhood diner is decorated with photographs of the celebrities who’ve visited, but the primary draw is the burgers, which are huge and juicy. The endless menu lists every conceivable burger topping, from avocado and bacon to Greek tzatziki sauce. The classic Bistro Burger has mushrooms, Swiss, and fried onions on toasted challah bread. | 2175 Broadway, between W. 76th and W. 77th Sts., Upper West Side | 10024-6603 | 212/362–9238 | www.bignicksnyc.com | MC, V | Subway: 1 to 79th St.; 1, 2, 3 to 72nd St.

Bouchon Bakery.

$ | CAFÉ | Never mind that you’re in the middle of a shopping mall under a Samsung sign, soups and sandwiches don’t get much more luxurious than this. Acclaimed chef Thomas Keller’s low-key lunch spot (one floor down from his extravagant flagship, Per Se) draws long lines for good reason. Share a mason jar of salmon rillettes—an unctuous spread of cooked and smoked salmon folded around crème fraîche and butter—then move on to one of the fork-and-knife open-faced tartines, like the tuna niçoise. When a sandwich has this much pedigree, $13.50 is actually a bargain. Grab dessert to go, a fresh macaroon or éclair, from the nearby bakery window. | 10 Columbus Circle, 3rd fl., at 60th St., Upper West Side | 10019-1158 | 212/823–9366 | www.bouchonbakery.com | AE, MC, V | Subway: 1, A, B, C, D to 59th St./Columbus Circle .

Café Luxembourg.

$$$ | BRASSERIE | The old soul of the Lincoln Center neighborhood seems to inhabit the tiled and mirrored walls of this lively, cramped restaurant, where West End Avenue regulars—including lots of on-air talent from nearby ABC News—are greeted with kisses, and musicians and audience members pack the room after a concert. The bar’s always hopping, and the menu (served until 11 pm Sunday through Tuesday and until midnight from Wednesday through Saturday) includes dishes like steak tartare and lobster roll alongside dishes with a more contemporary spin like pan-seared trout with haricots verts, hazelnuts, and tomato-caper compote. | 200 W. 70th St., between Amsterdam and West End Aves., Upper West Side | 10123-4323 | 212/873–7411 | www.cafeluxembourg.com | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | Subway: 1, 2, 3, B, C to 72nd St.

Carmine’s.

$$ | ITALIAN | Set on a nondescript block of Broadway, this branch of the Italian family-style mainstay is a favorite for families celebrating special occasions, pre-prom groups of teens, and plain old folks who come for the tried-and-true menu items like fried calamari, linguine with white clam sauce, chicken parmigiana, and veal saltimbocca, all served in mountainous portions. Family photos line the walls, there’s a groaning antipasti table filled with savory meats, cheese, and salads, and there’s a convivial feeling amid the organized chaos. On weekends, only parties of six or more can make dinner reservations. | 2450 Broadway, between 90th and 91st Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/362–2200 | www.carminesnyc.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: 1, 2, 3, to 96th St./Broadway

Dovetail.

$$$$ | AMERICAN | Inside Dovetail, chef-owner John Fraser’s subdued town house and restaurant, cream-color

walls and maple panels create a warm, soothing atmosphere, and a recent expansion allows for more dining-room space and a larger bar area. The menu, which changes daily, features refined but hearty dishes. Seek solace from winter temperatures with the earthy gnocchi topped with matsutake mushrooms, poppy seeds, and lemon. Tender lamb is heightened by potatoes, artichokes, and olives. The savory feast continues with pastry chef Michael Shelkowitz’s Earl Grey pumpkin cake with lemon curd and cinnamon-toast ice cream. | 103 W. 77th St., at Columbus Ave., Upper West Side | 10024-6909 | 212/362–3800 | www.dovetailnyc.com | AE, DC, MC, V | No lunch Mon.–Thurs., Sat., or Sun. | Subway: 1 to 79th St.; B, C to 81st St./Museum of Natural History .

Fatty Crab.

$ | MALAYSIAN | The uptown branch of Zac Pelaccio’s downtown Malaysian street-food joint has two major advantages over its downtown sibling: more seats and a reservations line. Other than that, the menu mimics the Hudson Street locale’s laundry list of crowd-pleasing favorites, like coconut-rich short rib Rendang and soft buns filled with Berkshire pork, cilantro, and savory sauce. Perhaps in deference to the child-toting population in the neighborhood, there’s spacious outdoor seating perfect for parking strollers. | 2170 Broadwaybetween 76th and 77th Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/496–2722 | www.fattycrab.com | AE, D, MC, V | Subway: 1 to 79th St./Broadway

Jean Georges.

$$$$ | FRENCH | This culinary temple in the Trump International Hotel and Towers focuses wholly on chef celebre Jean-Georges Vongerichten’s spectacular creations. Some approach the limits of the taste universe, like foie-gras brûlée with spiced fig jam and ice-wine reduction. Others are models of simplicity, like slowcooked cod with warm vegetable vinaigrette. Exceedingly personalized service and a well-selected wine list contribute to an unforgettable meal, as do tattooed celeb pastry chef Johnny Iuzzini’s rock-and-roll desserts, like a lemon ice cream filled with house-made pop rocks. For Jean Georges on a budget, try the prix-fixe lunch in the front room, Nougatine. | 1 Central Park W, at W. 59th St., Upper West Side | 10023-7703 | 212/299–3900 | www.jeangeorges.com | Reservations essential Jacket required | AE, DC, MC, V | Closed Sun. | Subway: A, B, C, D, 1 to 59th St./Columbus Circle .

Kefi.

$ | GREEK | Michael Psilakis’s homage to his grandmother’s Greek cooking has moved to an expansive space a few blocks north of the now-closed original location. Among the mezes, the meatballs with roasted garlic, olives, and tomato is a standout; the flavorful roast chicken, potatoes, red peppers, garlic, and thyme makes for a winning entrée, and the béchamel-rich Kefi mac ’n cheese is irresistible. Reasonable prices—appetizers are no more than $9.95, and main courses max out at $16.95 —make it easy to stick around for a piece of traditional walnut cake with walnut ice cream. | 505 Columbus Ave., between 84th and 85th Sts., Upper West Side | 100246230 | 212/873–0200 | AE, DC, MC, V | No lunch Mon. | Subway: 1 to 86th St.; B, C to 86th St.

Fodor’s Choice | Marea.

$$$$ | SEAFOOD | Carefully sourced, meticulously prepared fish and seafood take center stage at this glossy, well-pedigreed restaurant. Large picture windows in the dining room offer expansive views of Central Park South, and silver-dipped shells on pedestals decorate the dining room. No expense is spared in importing the very best of the ocean’s bounty, beginning with an entire menu of raw crudo dishes—think scallops with orange, wild fennel, and arugula—that is rapidly becoming the restaurant’s signature and can be enjoyed in the main dining room or an eight-seat bar at the end of the front room’s shimmering onyx wall. You’d be remiss, though, if you skipped the pastas that made chef Michael White famous at the nowclosed Convivio (and at his expanding empire, which includes Osteria Morini in NoLIta and Ai Fiori in the new Setai Hotel). They’re served here in lusty iterations like rich fusilli with octopus and bone marrow and spaghetti with sea urchin. Whole fish like roasted turbot and salt-baked snapper are equally showstopping. Service is flawless, and even the dishware—scalloped china embossed with the restaurant’s name and tiny shell-shape espresso cups—is special. | 240 Central Park S, between Broadway and 7th Ave., Midtown West | 10019 | 212/582–5100 | www.mareanyc.com | Reservations essential | AE, MC, V | Subway: A, B, C, D, 1 to Columbus Circle.

Fodor’s Choice | Per Se.

$$$$ | AMERICAN | The New York interpretation of what many consider America’s finest restaurant, Napa Valley’s French Laundry, Per Se is chef Thomas Keller’s Broadway stage. Keller equally embraces French technique, a religious fervor for seasonality, and a witty playfulness that speaks to his confidence in the kitchen. The large dining room is understated and elegant, with touches of wood, towering florals, and—the best design touch of all— sweeping windows with views of Central Park. Keller’s dishes are now world-renowned, such as his tiny cones of

tuna tartare topped with crème fraiche, and “oysters and pearls,” delicate tiny mollusks suspended in a creamy custard with tapioca. Dessert service is a multicourse celebration of all things sweet, including a choice of 27 house-made chocolates and, of course, treats to take home. Waiters, who can, and may, recite the provenance of the tiniest turnip, are also some of the nicest, most disarming servers in town. There’s also a new à la carte “salon” menu available in the front bar room, but let’s face it: if you manage to snag a reservation, there’s nothing else to do but submit to the $275 prix-fixe. | Time Warner Center,10 Columbus Circle, 4th fl., at W. 60th St., Upper West Side | 10019-1158 | 212/823–9335 | www.perseny.com | Reservations essential Jacket required | AE, MC, V | No lunch Mon.–Thurs. | Subway: A, B, C, D, 1 to 59th St./Columbus Circle .

Picholine.

$$$$ | MEDITERRANEAN | Having undergone a spiffy renovation in recent years, Terrence Brennan’s classic French restaurant, done up in tones of eggplant and lavender, still has a dignified atmosphere, but it’s now caught up with the times. His kitchen maintains a strong emphasis on contemporary Mediterranean cuisine and relies conspicuously on artisanal farmers and food producers. The menu is divided into four relatively small sections: Preludes, Pastas, Day Boats, and the Land, and you are invited to construct your own tasting by selecting three or four sections. The kitchen’s spin on chicken Kiev is particularly brilliant: an heirloom chicken breast is pressed into a fat juicy tube and rolled in crushed cornflakes before it is deep-fried. Slice into the soft cylinder and it spills its luscious “liquid foie gras” filling. Don’t miss the famous cheese course, which Brennan practically invented here. There’s also a more limited three-course pretheater prixfixe for $58, one of the best deals in the neighborhood. | 35 W. 64th St., between Broadway and Central Park W, Upper West Side | 10023-6728 | 212/724–8585 | www.picholinenyc.com | Reservations essential | AE, DC, MC, V | No lunch. Closed Sun. | Subway: 1 to 66th St./Lincoln Center .

Porter House.

$$$$ | STEAKHOUSE | With clubby interiors by Jeffrey Beers and an adjoining lounge area, Porter House marks the splashy return to the scene of former Windows on the World chef Michael Lomonaco. Filling the meat-and- potatoes slot in the Time Warner Center’s upscale “Restaurant Collection,” the masculine throwback highlights American wines and pedigreed super-size meat. The neighborhood, long underserved on the steak-house front, has quickly warmed to Lomonaco’s simple, solid American fare. Begin with his smoky clams casino or rich roasted marrow bones. Steaks are huge and expertly seasoned, and come with the usual battery of à la carte sides— creamed spinach, roasted mushrooms, and truffle mashed potatoes. | 10 Columbus Circle, 4th fl., at 60th St., Upper West Side | 10019-1158 | 212/823–9500 | www.porterhousenewyork.com | AE, MC, V | Subway: 1, A, B, C, D to 59th St./Columbus Circle .

Salumeria Rosi.

$ | ITALIAN | Just up the block from Gray’s Papaya sits this compact temple to a whole different subset of cured meats. Chef Cesare Casella has created a showcase for dozens of varieties of prosciutto, coppa, mortadella, and more, carved from a professional slicer for consumption on the spot or as indulgent takeout from the immaculate glasswalled display case. There’s also a more ambitious menu, including a salad of arugula and lemon with Parmesan, and a lusty osso buco over creamy mashed potatoes. If you’re lucky, you may catch a glimpse of the avuncular chef with his signature rosemary sprig peeking out from his breast pocket. | 283 Amsterdam Ave., between 73rd and 74th Sts., Upper West Side | 10024 | 212/877–4700 | www.salumeriarosi.com | AE, D, MC, V | Subway: 1 to 79th St./Broadway

Sarabeth’s.

$$ | AMERICAN | Lining up for brunch here is as much an Upper West Side tradition as taking a sunny Sunday afternoon stroll in nearby Riverside Park. Locals love the bric-a-brac–filled restaurant for sweet morning-time dishes like lemon ricotta pancakes, as well as for the comforting dinners. The afternoon tea includes buttery scones with Sarabeth’s signature jams, savory nibbles, and outstanding baked goods. Dinner entrées include chicken potpie and truffle mac ’n cheese. | 423 Amsterdam Ave., at W. 80th St., Upper West Side | 10024-5856 | 212/496–6280 | www.sarabeth.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: 1 to 79th St.

Fodor’s Choice | Shake Shack.

¢ | BURGER | Local restaurant legend Danny Meyer has gone a little low-brow with his fast-ish food venture, Shake Shack—and New Yorkers are loving it. The Upper West Side Shack is an eat-in joint just across Columbus Avenue from the American Museum of Natural History. Although the lines may be long at lunchtime, the grub is good and well priced. Fresh steer burgers are ground daily, and a single will run you from $3.75 to $4.75, depending on what you want on it. For a few more bucks you can also order doubles and stacks or a vegetarian ‘Shroom Burger—a

melty Muenster and cheddar cheese–stuffed portobello. The Shake Shack also offers beef and bird (chicken) hot dogs, french fries, and a variety of delicious frozen custard desserts and—of course—thick shakes! | 366 Columbus Ave., at W. 77th St., Upper West Side | 10024-5109 | 646/747–8770 | www.shakeshacknyc.com | AE, D, MC, V | Subway: B, C to 81st St.

Telepan.

$$$ | AMERICAN | Chef-owner Bill Telepan is a regular at the neighborhood greenmarket, and it shows in his seasonal, produce-driven menu, which is divided into three courses: appetizers of salads, light fish dishes, and soups; middle courses of eggs, pasta, or vegetables; and main courses of meat and fish. A trio of tiny amuses-bouches such as wild mushroom cappuccino arrives to tease your palate, and the servers are refreshingly well versed on the wine list. The menu features brook trout, served on celeryroot blini with green-apple sour cream, a well-deserved favorite, as is anything on the menu that contains eggs, like the “egg-in-a-hole” served with spinach and hen-of-the- woods mushrooms. For dessert, a crunchy peanut-butter and milk-chocolate gianduja duo with peanut-brittle ice cream is sublime. | 72 W. 69th St., between Columbus Ave. and Central Park W, Upper West Side | 10023-5212 | 212/580–4300 | www.telepan-ny.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | No lunch Mon. and Tues. | Subway: 1 to 66th St./Lincoln Center; 1, 2, 3 to 72nd St.; B, C to 72nd St.

HARLEM

For more adventurous eating, head up to Harlem for the city’s best southern cooking. This is a neighborhood that takes pride in its cooking, and in addition to plates of collard greens, mac ’n cheese and smothered chicken, an infusion of wine bars, restaurants, and lounges is changing the landscape. This is where renowned chef Marcus Samuelsson now lives and recently opened his high-profile restaurant, Red Rooster, helping to encourage the beginning of a new Harlem dining renaissance.

Dinosaur Bar-B-Que.

$ | BARBECUE | New York’s reputation for inferior barbecue improved instantly when John Stage opened the third outpost of his Syracuse-based joint in 2004, installing it in a riverside meatpacking warehouse in Harlem. Now Dinosaur has moved a block away to a larger location with capacious bar seating perfect for downing a plate of knockout wings and a tall beer. Here the city’s friendliest waitstaff serves piled-high plates of pulled pork, ribs, chicken, and brisket. A well-stocked bar corrals the Columbia students and worn-out shoppers from the nearby Fairway supermarket. | 646 W. 131st St., at 12th Ave., Harlem | 10027-7948 | 212/694–1777 | www.dinosaurbarbque.com | AE, D, DC, MC, V | Subway: 1 to 125th St.

Red Rooster Harlem.

$$ | AMERICAN | Chef Marcus Samuelsson has fulfilled a longtime dream of opening an uptown restaurant—and hopes to spark a foodie’s Harlem Renaissance. Red Rooster is an homage to Samuelsson’s polyglot history— he’s of Ethiopian descent, was raised by Swedish parents, and earned his culinary stripes in New York City—and a welcome addition to the Harlem dining scene. Try to get seated in the light-filled upstairs room, with its distinctive round bar bustling open kitchen in back, and works from local artists on the wall. The food is a love letter to Saumelsson’s birthplace and adoptive homes—the nut mix on the bar includes crisped bits of Ethiopian injera bread, fennel-laced, house-cured gravlax that would make any Swedish mother proud, and a fried “yardbird” features enough crunch to please regulars at soul-food classic Sylvia’s next door. Expect a wait for Sunday brunch, which features gospel music and boozy, strong cocktails, and modern takes on dishes like chicken and waffles. | 310 Lenox Ave., between 125th and 126th Sts., Harlem | 10027 | 212/92-9001 | www.redroosterharlem.com | AE, MC, V | Subway: 2,3 to 125th St.

Previous Chapter | Beginning of Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Main Table of Contents

THE SCENE

Where Should I Stay?

Hotel Hot Spots

Romantic Retreats

Kids in Tow

Lodging Alternatives

Planner

HOTELS BY NEIGHBORHOOD

Financial District

TriBeCa

SoHo

East Village

Lower East Side

Chelsea

Greenwich Village

Meatpacking District

Flatiron District

Gramercy Park

Murray Hill

Union Square

Midtown West

Midtown East

Upper East Side

Upper West Side

Previous Chapter | Next Chapter | Table of Contents

Where Should I Stay? | Hotel Hot Spots | Romantic Retreats | Kids in Tow | Lodging Alternatives | Planner

Updated by Adeena Sussman

It’s still a buyer’s market for hotels here in New York. But does that mean that New York is cheap? Not exactly. Deals are plentiful if you’re not set on a specific property. With occupancy down across the city, hotels are slashing rates —especially if you’re willing to wait until the last minute. That said, if you want to stay in a specific place and the rate seems reasonable, book it—it’s just as likely to go up, especially during peak seasons (spring and fall).

And how to choose? Well, the first thing to consider is location. Many New York City visitors insist on staying in the hectic Midtown area—and options are improving here—but other neighborhoods are often just as convenient. Less touristy areas, such as Gramercy, the Lower East Side, the Upper West Side—even Brooklyn—offer a far more realistic sense of New York life.

Also consider timing: the least expensive months to book rooms in the city are January and February. If you’re flexible on dates, ask the reservationist if there’s a cheaper time to stay during your preferred traveling month—that way you can avoid peak dates, like Fashion Week and the New York City Marathon. And be sure to ask about possible weekend packages that could include a third night free. (The Financial District in particular can be a discount gold mine on the weekend.)

Another source of bargains? Chain hotels. Many have moved into the city, offering reasonable room rates. In addition to favorites like the Sheraton, Hilton, and Hyatt brands, there are Best Westerns, Days Inns, and Comfort Inns. These rates aren’t as low as you’ll find outside Manhattan, but they’re certainly getting closer.

WHERE SHOULD I STAY?

Lower Manhattan

Neighborhood Vibe: Mostly skyscraper hotels in an area that buzzes with activity during weekday hours but can be eerily quiet at night.

Pros: Low crime area; easy subway access to uptown sights; great walking paths along the waterfront and in Battery Park.

Cons: Construction and congestion near World Trade Center site; limited choice of restaurants and shopping.

SoHo and Little Italy (with NoLIta)

Neighborhood Vibe: Swanky, high-end hotels with hip restaurants and lounges patronized by New Yorkers and travelers alike.

Pros: Scores of upscale clothing boutiques and art galleries nearby; safe area for meandering walks; easy subway access.

Cons: Not budget-friendly; streets are crowded on weekends; few major monuments nearby.

Greenwich Village, the West Village and Chelsea (with the Meatpacking District)

Neighborhood Vibe: More hotels are opening in one of the city’s trendiest restaurant and nightlife areas.

Pros: Easy subway access to anywhere in town; great shopping, dining, and drinking venues.

Cons: Winding streets can be tough to navigate; most hotels are on the pricey side.

Union Square to Murray Hill (with the Flatiron District and Gramercy)

Neighborhood Vibe: A residential area where you’ll get a feel for what it’s really like to live in the city.

Pros: Patches of calm respite from the hustle-and-bustle of downtown and Midtown; low crime area.

Cons: Limited subway access; Gramercy or Murray Hill area may be too quiet for some.

East Village and the Lower East Side

Neighborhood Vibe: The epicenter of edgy New York, great for travelers looking to party.

Pros: Great low-cost options for young adults. Excellent chef-owned restaurants and independent boutiques nearby.

Cons: One of the least subway-accessible Manhattan neighborhoods; expect late-night noise.

Midtown

Neighborhood Vibe: Mostly big-name hotel chains and luxury business suites in the area around Times Square, where out-of-towners tend to congregate.

Pros: Near Broadway theaters; easy access to regional trains and most subway lines; budget options are available in chain hotels and indies alike.

Cons: Streets are often packed with pedestrians; restaurants are chain-owned and often overpriced; area around Port Authority can feel gritty.

Upper East Side

Neighborhood Vibe: Well-heeled residential neighborhood with excellent location near many museums.

Pros: Removed from Midtown hustle; near tourist attractions like Central Park.

Cons: Streets are quiet after 9 pm; few budget dining options; limited subway access (just the 6 line).

Upper West Side

Neighborhood Vibe: High-priced hotels in a residential neighborhood near Central Park, Lincoln Center, and several museums.

Pros: Low crime area; tree-lined streets; great delis and laid-back neighborhood eateries.

Cons: Weekend trains can be dreadfully slow; most hotels are on the pricey side.

HOTEL HOT SPOTS

Some of the city’s most stylish bars and lounges are in hotels. These boîtes occasionally require crossing a velvetroped entrance, but most extend automatic entry to guests of the hotel.

Downtown in the Financial District, the Library Bar on the second floor of Gild Hall looks like the ultimate luxe club room, with tufted leather banquettes, a dartboard, and a surprisingly friendly staff.

Mega-hotelier Ian Schrager’s properties are design temples, with chic lounges favored by jet-setters and locals alike. The new “haute Bohemian” Gramercy Park Hotel