10 Заказ № 38
of the Altai used the ready, tried by ages, forms of the clothes of the aborigines to accomodate their culture to the changed climate, landscape, etc. Such interconnection is the most pronounced one in the male hunting clothes and overcoats, and, in the less extent, it is traced in the female clothes. However, the ritual costumes of both sexes lack it at all. The unknown to peasants of the European Russia "chembary" (breeches), as a kind of woman's dress, were the traditional ones for the Altai and Kazakh women, from which the Russian women adopted the name and style of the latter. The "chembary" of the local constructions made up a considerable part of the belt clothes of the male half of the Old Residents too. Many traditions of the Altai and Kazakh peoples were perceived in the costumes of those, engaged in fishery and hunting, especially by the Mountain Altai population: the "chembary", made of fur and leather, "brodni" (leathern foot-wear), fastened to waist-belt by thongs, and so on. At their neighbours, those speaking the Turkic language, everywhere the customs to wear the robe-shaped clothes over the underones, to tuck fur-coats in "chembary", to make two-layered mittens and foot-wear were adopted. In the author's opinion, the rational for these climatic and physico-geographical conditions elements, as well as the striking, garish details and adornments (the colourful set of paints, the eastern motifs in ornamentation of the man's trousers and the top clothes, the fur-head-dresses with ribbons and tassels, and so on) were adopted easier than all the rest ones.
The analysis of clothes of the Russian Old Residents of the Upper Cis-Ob' Area in the second half of the XIXth - the beginning of the XXth centuries, allowed Ye.F. Fursova to work out the detailed typologies of chemises, "sarafany", trousers, etc., adding with some local types and variants those already known (B.A. Kuftin, D.K. Zeienin, N.P. Grinkova, G.S. Maslova). These typologies reflect the really existed kinds of clothes, and often in the chronological consequence of their existence in the Altai. Moreover, they are the visual demonstration of the trend of changes, that took place in the traditional styles of clothes.
It must be noted, in this connection, that the tunic-shaped kinds of clothes were not only kept up in the Cis-Ob' Area, but also had got there the further development, which became apparent in: a) turning to the open cut, with straps; 6) appearance of the cut, with yoke and в) with seams on shoulders style. Approaching the open cut, with straps was rather distinctly traced in the South-Eastern Altai, where the unthrown open type clothes, and first of all "sarafany" could get
"sarafany"), with narrow straps. A great number of the transitional and survival forms in the clothes of the population of this part of the Altai are indicative of the latter. Much longer, the "sarafany" of the unthrown open type, with wide straps, survived at the "Kerzhaks" of the Northern and Central Altai. Only on the boundary of the previous and current centuries, at them, under the influence of the Russian migrants' clothes, the bevelled "sarafany" ("klinniki"), with narrow straps, spread. Changes of the kind are also traced in the other types of clothes, put on one's shoulders ("narukavniki").
The second trend in the development of the tunic-shaped clothes - cutting and making gathers in the material, at first, over the breast and, latter on, over the back too. The both trends promoted appearance of the clothes on yoke.
The third trend in evolution of the tunic-shaped clothes resulted in appearance of tucks and, later on, seams at the place of shoulders. For the first time, in the Russian clothes, such tucks were mentioned in the XVIIth century. The appearance of the latter was, evidently, caused by the general tendencies of the development of the "people's style" and also by the influence of the ideals of the urban petty bourgeois mode, with certain principles of the informativeness.
Among the chemises with "poliki", the author recognizes several transitional variants, reflecting the trends and ways of evolution of this kind of clothes. A special attention is paid to the cut of sleeves, which, as it has turned out, was characterized by the local conditions of life and the attachment to definite ethnographical groups. The earliest ones were the first and second variants, with an original cut of sleeves, made of two pieces of linen, joined alternately by the longitudinal and transversal cuts off, with bending of the corners of the material. Here, the "pol'atskiye kuli" and "bukhtarminskiy" variants are meant.
The evolution of the main components of the women's and girls' head-dresses in the Cis-Ob' Area and, in the earlier periods, on the territory of the European Russia, is also traced in this book. The girls' head-dress, retained in the South and South-Eastern Altai, is considered by the author to be the late variant of the one, made of a towel and connected with an ancient hair style, called "the loose flowing hair". The former one was made of a shawl, folded up in a ribbon and then, to cover one's head, knotted from behind. In the ritual women's clothes of the Old-Believers, destined for prayings, funeral, weddings, the head-dresses, resembling those widely known in the past at the Indo-Europeans and some
were retained.
The costume forms, retained in the Altai (the survival of the initial, transitional and late ones), witness that the kinds of the Russian clothes, brought to the Altai, have passed rather complicated way of their development. The latter, in some cases, concur and, in the other ones, has no concurrence with evolution of these clothes in the European Russia. For this reason, the traditional costumes of the Old Residents of the Altai find no direct analogies in the clothes of the European peasants of any concrete region (province).
The costumes of the Old Residents and, first of all, those of the Old-Believers of the Upper Cis-Ob' Area retain many peculiarities of the designs, adornments and technology, typical for the wares of the kind, relating to the remote past. To such peculiar elements one can refer, for instance, stripes of red textile, placed along the seams, joining the main pieces of material of the men's shirts of the "Pol'aki". Such details in the South-Russian and Ukrainian shirts of the XIXth century have been retained only as the survivals. At the same time, the adornments of the kind were those rather traditional ones for the Russian clothes of the XVIIth century, for the more close analogies we find in several shirts of this period, represented in the collection of the State Historical Museum. In the Xlth - Xlllth centuries, very similar shirts of the unthrown cut, with two parallel stripes along the whole length of the wares and wide border over the hem, collar and the lower part of the sleeves could be seen on the clergymen. As is known, in this period, Russia, on a level with the Christian faith, perceived from Byzantium the outer attributics of the Orthodox priesthood, characterized by the same longitudinal stripes and the meanderlike ornament. Such concurrences allow to speak about the concrete influence of the Byzantine forms of clothes upon the Old Russian ones. Such influence could take place in the Roman-Byzantine Epoch, when the tunic-shaped shirts of the kind became known to many peoples of Western Europe.
The Old-Believers tried to keep up the traditions of their ancestors in the top clothes too. Thus, for instance, the custom to cover the head, shoulders, homespun coat and so on, came from the anciest clothes of the Slavs -cloaks. Besides, in the top clothes of the Old Residents, such ancient elements as long, covering hands, sleeves, fixed in the Middle Asiatic costumes from the Vllth century, and in those of the Eastern Slavs and Europeans approximately from the middle of the Xllth century,
were preserved. Undoubtedly, the old ones were the traditions to adorn clothes with embroidery, cords and application of the other textile, ornamented with patterns of a large size.
Such clothes were present in the Old Russian masters' costumes of the XVIth - XVIIth centuries. More than in any other costumes, the archaic elements were preserved in the ritual complexes:
the unsewn clothes, represented by pieces of material (to cover head and legs); the most simple sewn clothes of the cloak-and tunic-shaped cuts (shrouds, chemises, shirts, "sarafany", etc.), shawls, coverings; haircut and hair style (the loose flowing hair or the pinned together one);
foot-wear (the socks, made with one knitting needle, and "obutki" - leathern foot-wear). The manual production of the ancient forms of the
ritual clothes promoted preservation of the latter.
On the boundary of the XIXth - XXth centuries, some new kinds of clothes, with modern urban silhouettes and the elements of design, including the national constructions, appeared. Later on, the "pure" urban types of clothes became the more and more popular ones. Due to the confessional, geographical and the other peculiarities, these changes in clothes were not the synchronous ones in different places of the Altai.
In this monograph, the pictures and draughts of clothes and the original photographs of the beginning of the current century, as well as the maps, showing the places of distribution of different kinds of clothes, the vocabulary of the terms, connected with the Siberian costumes, and the list of informators are adduced too.
СПИСОК ОСНОВНЫХ ИНФОРМАТОРОВ
Акулова Просковья Трифоновна - родилась в с. Акулово (ранее Охотское) Первомайского района Алтайского края в 1902 г. (чалдонка, православная)
Архипова Агния Сидоровна - родилась в с. Топольном Солонешенского района Алтайского края в 1917 г. (кержачка)
Бахмутов Степан Архипович - родился в с. Малоубинка Глубоковского района Восточно-Казахстанской области Каз. ССР (кержак)
Берсенева Мария Никитична - родилась в д. Девкино Искитимского района Новосибирской области в 1913 г. (чалдонка, православная)
Ботникова Зинаида Петровна - родилась в с. Черный Ануй Усть-Канского района Алтайского края в 1909 г. (деды из Воронежской губернии приехали на Алтай в конце XIX в.)
Бурыкин Сафрон Федорович - родился в с. Сибирячиха Солонешенского района Алтайского края в 1892 г. ("поляк")
Вареникова Агафья Яковлевна - родилась в с. Кажа Красногорского района Алтайского края в 1905 г. (кержачка)
Выходцева Варвара Тимофеевна - родилась в с. Парыгино Зыряновского района Алтайского края в 1907 г. (кержачка)
Гольцева Мария Егоровна - родилась в с. Быструха Глубоковского района Восточно-Казахстанской области в 1920 г. ("полячка")
Гутова Ефимья Виссарионовна - родилась в д. Зырянке Николаевской волости в 1911 г. (кержачка)
Губин Селифан Григорьевич - родился в с. Топольном Солонешенского района Алтайского края в