Villages Huīzhōu8 Ānhuī

1Sights

Shèxiàn HISTORICVILLAGE

Historic seat of the Huīzhōu prefecture, Shèxiàn ( ) is 25km east of Túnxī and can be visited as a day trip. The town was formerly the grand centre of the Huīzhōu culture, serving as its capital. Today, the Ancient City ( ;HuīzhōuGǔchéng;admission incl entry toYúliáng & Chinese-speaking guide ¥80, without entry to Yúliáng ¥60) serves as the town’s main sight.

From the Shèxiàn bus station, cross the bridge over the river, hang right and go through a gate tower and along to Yánghé Mén ( ), a double-eaved gate tower constructed of wood. Get your admission ticket and climb the gate to examine a Ming-dynasty stone xièzhì ( ; a legendary beast) and elevated views of the magnificent Xǔguó Archway ( ; Xǔguó Shífáng) below. Fabulously decorated, this is China’s sole surviving four-sided decorative archway, with 12 lions (18 in total if you count the cubs) seated on pedestals around it and a profusion of bas-relief carvings of other mythical creatures.

Continue in the same direction to reach the alleyway (on left) to the old residential area of Doushan Jie ( ; Dòushānjiē Gǔmínjū), a street of Huīzhōu houses, with several courtyard residences open to visitors and decorated with exquisitely carved lintels, beautiful interiors and occasional pairs of leaping-on blocks for mounting horses. Look out for the páifāng (decorative archway) that has been filled in and incorporated into a wall.

At the time of research, massive construction in the Ancient City was under way. When complete (expected to be 2013), a replica of the original capital city complex will be open to the public.

( ; admission ¥30) Little-visited Yúliáng is a historic riverine port village on the Liàn River (Liàn Jiāng). Cobbled Yuliang Jie () is a picturesque alley of buildings and former transfer stations for the wood, salt and tea that plied the Liàn River and was shipped to north China; the teashop at No 87 is an example. Note the firewalls separating the houses along the road. Examine the traditional Huīzhōu arrangement of the

Bāwèizǔ Museum ( ; Bāwèizǔ Jìniànguǎn), also on Yuliang Jie.

The Lion Bridge ( ; Shīzĭ Qiáo) dates to the Tang dynasty, a time when the

138m-long granite Yúliáng Dam ( ; Yúliáng Bà) across the river was first constructed. Boats can ferry you from the dam for short 20-minute return river trips (¥10 to ¥20).

Tranquil Yúliáng is a good place to recharge your batteries. There are rooms with lovely views at a small inn (%0559-653 9731; 147 Yuliang Jie; 147 ; d with bathroom ¥50-60; a). There’s another similar inn

(%0559-653 8024; 145YuliangJie; 145 ; d with bathroom ¥80-100; a) two doors along. Both serve meals with dishes starting at ¥15. The innkeepers will take you into the village if you book ahead.

8 Getting There & Away

BusesfromTúnxī’slong-distancebusstation runregularlytoShèxiàn(¥6.50,45minutes, frequent).ToreachYúliáng,takeapedicab(¥5) fromShèxiàn’sbusstation(bythebridge),or hoponbus1,whichrunstoYúliáng(¥1)from outsidethebusstationandalsoalongtheroad oppositeShèxiànAncientCity.Thelastbusback toTúnxīdepartsat6pm.

Huángshān

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When its archetypal granite peaks and twisted pines are wreathed in spectral folds of mist, Huángshān’s idyllic views easily nudge it into the select company of China’s top 10, nay, top five, sights. Legions of poets and painters have drawn inspiration from Huángshān’s iconic beauty. Yesterday’s artists seeking an escape from the hustle and bustle of the temporal world may have been replaced by crowds of tourists, who bring the hustle and bustle with them, but Huángshān still rewards visitors with moments of tranquility, and the unearthly views can be simply breathtaking.

Climate

Locals claim that it rains more than 200 days a year up on the mountain. Allow yourself several days and head to the mountain when the forecast is best. Spring (April to June) generally tends to be misty, which means you may be treated to some stunning scenery, but you’re just as likely to encounter a thick fog that obscures everything except for a line of yellow ponchos extending up the trail. Summer (July to August) is the rainy season, though storms can blow through fairly quickly. Autumn (September to October) is generally

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Huángshān8 Ānhuī

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ActivitiesānSightngsh& Huá Ānhuī

considered to be the best travel period. Even at the height of summer, average temperatures rarely rise above 20°C at the summit, so come prepared.

1Sights & Activities

BusesfromTúnxī(HuángshānShì)dropyou off in Tāngkǒu, the sprawling town at the foot of Huángshān. A base for climbers, this is the place to stock up on supplies (maps, raincoats, food, money), store your excess luggage and arrange onward transport. It’s possible to spend time in Tāngkǒu, but unless you’re on a tight budget, you might as well stay on the mountain.

The town consists of two main streets, the larger Feicui Lu – a strip of restaurants, supermarkets and hotels – and the more pleasant Yanxi Jie, which runs along the river perpendicular to Feicui Lu and is accessed by stairs leading down from the bridge.

ASCENDING&DESCENDING THEMOUNTAIN

Regardless of how you ascend Huángshān

(admission 1 Mar-30 Nov ¥230, 1 Dec-29 Feb ¥130, seniorsyear-round¥60,child1.1-1.3m¥60),youwill bestungbythedizzyingentrancefee.Youcan pay at the eastern steps near the Yúngǔ Station ( ; Yúngǔ Zhàn) or at the Mercy Light Temple Station ( ; Cíguāng Gé Zhàn),wherethewesternstepsbegin.Shuttle buses (¥13) run to both places from Tāngkǒu.

Three basic routes will get you up to the summit: the short, hard way (eastern steps); the longer, harder way (western steps); and the very short, easy way (cable car). The eastern steps lead up from the Yúngǔ Station; the western steps lead up from the parking lot near Mercy Light Temple. It’s possible to do a 10-hour circuit going up the eastern steps and then down the western stepsinoneday,butyou’llhavetobeslightly insane, in good shape and you’ll definitely miss out on some of the more spectacular, hard-to-get-to areas.

Abasicitinerarywouldbetotakeanearlymorning bus from Túnxī, climb the eastern steps, hike around the summit area, spend the night at the top, catch the sunrise and then hike back down the western steps the next day, giving you time to catch an afternoon bus back to Túnxī. Most travellers do opttospendmorethanonenightonthesummit to explore all the various trails. Don’t underestimate the hardship involved; the steep gradients and granite steps can wreak havoc on your knees, both going up and down.

Most sightseers are packed (and we mean packed) into the summit area above the uppercablecarstations,consistingofanetwork of trails running between various peaks. The highlight of the climb for many independent travellers is the lesser-known West Sea Canyon hike (p388), a more rugged, exposed sectionwheremosttourgroupsdonotventure.

Make sure to bring enough water, food, warm clothing and rain gear before climbing. Bottled water and food prices increase the higher you go. As mountain paths are easy to follow and English signs plentiful, guides are unnecessary.

Hot Springs HOTSPRINGS

( ; Huángshān Wēnquán; admission ¥238; h10.30am-10.30pm) Thehotspringsarea,with renovations complete, is the place to soak after the strenuous climb. It offers a mindboggling variety of themed springs. Soak in a coffee-infused pool or get heady in the wineor alcohol-infused spring. There’s also a pool with fish that nibble away dead skin on your feet. Follow it all up with a foot massage. Entry includes complimentary snacks and tea.

The best way to get to the springs is to ar- rangeforafreetransferandpick-upviayour hotel. Shuttle buses (¥7) run to the Yúngǔ Station, from where it’s a short walk downhill to the hot springs.

Eastern Steps TRAIL

A medium-fast climb of the 7.5km eastern steps from Yúngǔ Station (890m) to White GooseRidge( ;Bái’éFēng;1770m)can be done in 2½ hours. The route is pleasant, but lacks the awesome geological scenery of the western steps. In spring wild azalea and weigela add gorgeous splashes of colour to the wooded slopes of the mountain.

Much of the climb is comfortably shaded and although it can be tiring, it’s a doddle compared with the western steps. Slowmoving porters use the eastern steps for ferrying up their massive, swaying loads of

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food, drink and building materials, so considerable traffic plies the route. While clambering up, note the more ancient flight of steps that makes an occasional appearance alongside the newer set.

Puristscanextendtheeasternstepsclimb by several hours by starting at the Front Gate ( ; Huángshān Dàmén), where a stepped path crosses the road at several points before linking with the main eastern steps trail.

rock suspended above the heads of climbers. Further on, Lotus Flower Peak (

point, but is occasionally sealed off, preventing ascents. Liánruǐ Peak ( ; Liánruǐ Fēng; 1776m)is decorated with rocks whimsically named after animals, but save some energy for the much-coveted and staggering climb – 1321 steps in all – up Heavenly CapitalPeak( ;TiāndūFēng;1810m) and the stunning views that unfold below. As elsewhere on the mountain, young lovers bring padlocks engraved with their names up here and lash them for eternity to the chain railings. Successful ascents can be commemorated with a gold medal engraved with your name (¥15). Access to Heavenly Capital Peak (and other peaks) is sometimes restricted for maintenance and repair, so keep those fingers crossed when you go!

Further below, the steps lead to Bànshān Temple ( ; Bànshān Sì) and below that the Mercy Light Temple ( ; Cíguāng Gé), where you can pick up a minibus back to Tāngkǒu (¥13) or continue walking to the hot springs area.

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Huángshān is not one of China’s sacred mountains, so little religious activity is evident. The Cíguāng Temple at the bottom of the western steps is one of the few temples on the mountain whose temple halls survive, although they have been converted to more secular uses. The first hall now serves as the Mt Huángshān Visitors Centre (

; Huángshān Yóurén Zhōngxīn), where you can pore over a diorama of the mountain ranges. Now head to Tāngkǒu to find yourself some beer as a reward.

Shēnghuā; 1640m), a granite formation topped by a pine tree. Clamber up to Purple Cloud Peak ( ; Dānxiá Fēng; 1700m) for a long survey over the landscape and try to catch the sun as it descends in the west. Aficionados of rock formations should keep an eye out for the poetically named Mobile Phone Rock ( ; Shǒujī Shí), located near the top of the western steps. Continue on to sights en route to the Western Steps (p387).

WESTSEACANYON

A strenuous and awe-inspiring 8.5km hike, this route descends into a gorge (Xīhǎi Dàxiágǔ) and has some impressively exposed stretches (it’s not for those afraid of heights), taking a minimum four hours to complete. You can access the canyon at eitherthenorthernentrance(nearthePáiyúnlóu Hotel) or the southern entrance (near the Báiyún Hotel aka White Clouds Hotel).

A good option to start would be at the northern entrance. From there, you’ll pass through some rock tunnels and exit onto the best bits of the gorge. Here, stone steps have been attached to the sheer side of the mountain! Peer over the side for some serious butt-clenching views down. Don’t worry, there are handrails. If you’re pressed for time or don’t have the energy to stomach a long hike, do a figure-eight loop of Ring Road 1 ( ) and Ring Road 2 (), and head back to the northern entrance. Sure, you’ll miss some stunning views across lonely, mist-encased peaks, but you’ll also miss the knee-killing dip into the valley and the subsequent thigh-killing climb out to the southern entrance.

At the time of research, construction of a new cable car up to this area was in full swingsoyoumayberestrictedtoRingRds1 and2.Whencomplete,expecttheareatoget a lot busier. Avoid the area in bad weather.

4Sleeping & Eating

Huángshān has various locations where hotels can be found. Prices and availability vary according to season; it’s a good idea to book ahead for summit accommodation, especially so for dorms. Prices for hotels tend to cost at least double what you’d pay in a nonmountain setting. If you’re on a tight budget, make sure to take plenty of food to the summit. You won’t be able to get a hot meal there for under ¥50. Summit hotels usually offer warm jackets for sunrise watchers.

Mediocre midrange hotels line Tāngkǒu’s main strip, Feicui Lu; remember to look at rooms first and ask for discounts before committing. There are also a host of budget choices along Tiandu Lu. Restaurants cluster along Yanxi Jie, which runs along the river perpendicular to Feicui Lu.

( ; Huángshān Tiānkè Shānzhuāng; %1377-761 8111; www.hstksz.com; Scenic Area South Gate; ; r incl breakfast ¥120-150; a) Wayne, the friendly Englishspeaking owner likens it to a lodge in Aspen…in reality, the place isn’t so much a ski lodge but a very decent midrange hotel. Book a cosy room in the charming outhouse for privacy. The inhouse restaurant serves great local food. Rooms include return transfers to/from the Tāngkǒu bus station.

( ; %556 6888; South Gate; ; tw ¥480-680; a) A large white edifice on the west side of the river on the Huángshān access road, this four-star hotel offers the priciest and nicest (the word being relative in this context) accommodation in Tāngkǒu. Prices in the three-star building are lower. Staff can help with bus and flight bookings.

( ;YúngǔShānzhuāng;%5586444;s&d ¥580;a) Withalovelybutinconvenientlylocated setting looking out onto bamboo and forest,thistraditionallystyledhotelhasfine, clean rooms, with 35% discounts frequently given. Walk down from the car park in front of the cable-car station.

ai) A 10-minute walk from the Yùpíng cable car (go to your right), this four-star hotel is perched on a spectacular 1660mhigh lookout just above the Welcoming Guest Pine Tree. Aim for the doubles with the good views at the back, as some rooms have small windows with no views. Discounted doubles are ¥880.

Báiyún Hotel HOTEL$$$

( ; Báiyún Bīnguǎn; %558 2708; www. baiyunhotel.com; dm ¥280-360, d/tr ¥1480/1680; ai) Dorms come with TV and shower, but

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are a bit old and worn; doubles (with private bathroom) pass muster but the hotel is sorely lacking compared with its competition. No English sign, but well signposted in English as White Clouds Hotel. Discounts knock dorms to ¥200 and doubles to ¥980.

Ideally, Huángshān visits include nights on the summit. Note that room prices rise on Saturday and Sunday, and are astronomical during major holiday periods. Most hotel restaurants offer buffets (breakfast ¥60, lunch and dinner ¥100 to ¥140) plus a selection of standard dishes (fried rice ¥40), though it can be difficult to get service outside meal times. Hotels in Tāngkǒu can arrange tents ( ; zhàngpéng; ¥180) for camping at selected points on the summit.

( ; Páiyúnlóu Bīnguǎn; %558 1558; www.paiyunlou.com; dm/d/tr ¥300/1480/1680; i) With an excellent location near Tiānhǎi Lake (Tiānhǎi Hú) and the entrance to the West Sea Canyon, plus three-star comfort, this place is recommended for those who prefer a slightly more tranquil setting. None of the regular rooms has any views, but the newer dorms are unobstructed and come with attached showers and TVs. Discounted dorms are ¥160 and doubles ¥780.

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( ; Xīhǎi Fàndiàn; %558 8888; www. hsxihaihotel.cn; dm/d ¥380/1680; ai) Regular rooms are tired but clean with heating and hot water, but take a look at the doubles first, as some face inwards. Discounts knock dorms to ¥280 and doubles to ¥1280. A new five-star block was under construction at the timeofresearch.Itwillbecompletedin2013.

8 Information

Tāngkǒu

Bank of China ( ; Zhōngguó Yínháng; h8am-5pm)SouthernendofYanxiJie.

Internet cafe ( ; wǎngbā; per hr ¥3; h8am-midnight)Onthewestsideoftheriver, 2nd floor.

Public Security Bureau (PSB; ; Gōng’ānjú; %556 2311) Western end of the bridge.

On the Mountain

Mosthotelsonthemountainhaveinternet accessareasforguestsandnonguests,with hourlyratesof¥15to¥20.Somehavefreewi-fi.

Bank of China ( ; Zhōngguó Yínháng; h8-11am&2.30-5pm)OppositeBěihǎiHotel. Changes money. ATM that accepts international cards.

Police station ( ; pàichūsuǒ; %558 1388) Beside the bank.

8 Getting There & Away

BusesfromTúnxī(akaHuángshānShì)take aroundonehourtoreachTāngkǒufromeither thelong-distancebusstation(¥18,onehour, frequent,6amto5pm)orthetrainstation(¥18, departureswhenfull,6.30amto5pm,mayleave aslateas8pminsummer).BusesbacktoTúnxī fromTāngkǒuareplentiful,andcanbeflagged downontheroadtoTúnxī(¥18).Thelastbus backleavesat5.30pm.

Tāngkǒuhastwobusstations.Whengetting intoTāngkǒu,youwillbedroppedatthesouth long-distancestation( ; nándàménhuànchéngfēnzhōngxīn).When comingdownthemountain,youmaybedropped attheeastlong-distancebusstation(;dōnglǐnghuànchéngfēnzhōngxīn)east ofthetowncentreandwithinwalkingdistance fromFeicuiLu.Yourhotelshouldbeabletohelp withbookingsandpick-uportransfers.Major destinationsinclude:

Hángzhōu ¥100, 3½ hours, seven daily Héféi ¥91, four hours, seven daily

Jiǔhuá Shān ¥47, 2½ hours, two daily (6.30am and 2.20pm)

Nánjīng ¥93, five hours, three daily Shànghǎi Y140, 6½ hours, five daily

Wǔhàn ¥235, nine hours, two daily (8.40am and 5.30pm)

Yīxiàn ¥15, one hour, four daily (stops at Hóngcūn and Xīdì)

8 Getting Around

Officialtouristshuttlesrunbetweenthetwolongdistancebusstationsandthehotspringsarea (¥7),Yúngǔstation( ;Yúngǔzhàn;eastern steps;¥13)andMercyLightTemplestation(;Cíguānggézhàn;westernsteps;¥13), departingevery20minutesfrom6amto5.30pm, thoughtheyusuallywaituntilenoughpeopleare onboard.Ataxitotheeasternorwesternsteps willcost¥50;tothehotspringsarea¥30.

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The Tang-dynasty Buddhists who determined Jiǔhuá Shān to be the earthly abode of the Bodhisattva Dizang (Ksitigarbha), Lord of the Underworld, chose well. Often shrouded in a fog that pours in through the windows of its cliff-side temples, Jiǔhuá Shān exudes an aura of otherworldliness, heightened by the devotion of those who come here to pray for the souls of the departed. At times, though, it seems that the commerce that drives the religion – religious trinkets, good-luck charms and overpriced josssticksabound–detractsfromtheoverall experience. However, true believers seem to be able to brush it all off with their fervency. With its yellow-walled monasteries, flickeringcandlesandthesteadydroneofBuddhist chanting emanating from pilgrims’ MP3 players, the mountain is an entirely different experience from neighbouring Huángshān.

History

One of China’s four Buddhist mountain ranges, Jiǔhuá Shān was made famous by the8th-centuryKoreanmonkKimKiaoKak (Jin Qiaojue), who meditated here for 75 years and was posthumously proclaimed to be the reincarnation of Dizang. In temples, Dizang is generally depicted carrying a staff and a luminous jewel, used to guide souls through the darkness of hell.

1Sights & Activities

Buses will let you off at Jǐhuáshān Xīnqūzhàn ( ). It’s the local bus terminus and main ticket office where you purchase your ticket for the mountain

(admission 1 Mar-30 Nov ¥190,1 Dec-29 Feb ¥140). You’ll also then need to buy a return shuttle

bus ticket (¥50, 20 minutes, every 30 minutes) from the counters on the left of the admission-ticket windows. The bus goes to Jiǔhuájiē village, the main accommodation area that is about halfway up the mountain (or, as locals say, at roughly navel height in a giant Buddha’s potbelly). The shuttle terminates at the bus station just before the gate ( ; dàmén) leading to the village, from where the main street ( ; Furong Lu) headssouthpasthotelsandrestaurants.The main square is on the right off Furong Lu as you proceed up the street.

past the village’s main entrance on your left, worshippers hold sticks of incense to their foreheadsandfacethefourdirectionsatthis enticingly esoteric yellow temple. There are chanting sessions in the evening that pilgrims can join.

FHuàchéng Sì TEMPLE

( ; h6.30am-8.30pm) The largest, most elaborate temple in town. Ornately carved dragons serve as handrails up the main steps. The eaves and beams of the buildings are painted in every colour imaginable and the icing on the cake is the three huge golden bodhisattvas that greet visitors: each one sits at least 25m tall and provides quite the setting come evening prayer time.

Mountain Summit TRAIL

The real highlight is walking up the mountain alongside the pilgrims, following a trail ( ) that passes waterfalls, streams and countless nunneries, temples and shrines. The summit is on a mountain range behind the village. The hike up takes aleisurelyfourhours;countonabouttwoto three hours to get back down to the village.

You can begin just after the village’s main entrance, where a 30-minute hike up the ridge behind Zhīyuán Temple leads you to

Bǎisuì Gōng ( ; admission free; h6am- 5.30pm), an active temple built into the cliff in 1630 to consecrate the Buddhist monk Wu Xia,whoseshrunken,embalmedbodyiscoatedingoldandsitsshrivelledwithinanornate glass cabinet in front of a row of pink lotus candles. If you don’t feel like hiking, take the funicular (express/ordinary return ¥150/100, one way¥55;h7am-5.30pm) to the ridge.

From the top, walk south along the ridge past the Dōngyá Temple ( ;

Dōngyá Chánsì) to the Huíxiāng Pavilion» ( ; Huíxiāng Gé), above which towers the seven-storey 10,000 Buddha Pagoda

( ; admission ¥10; h6am-5.30pm), fashioned entirely from bronze and prettily lit at night. A western path leads to town, while the eastern one dips into a pleasant valley and continues past the Phoenix Pine (; Fènghuáng Sōng) and the cable car station (one-way/return¥75/140) to Tiāntái Peak

( ; Tiāntái Zhèng Dǐng; 1304m). The two-hour walk to the summit is tough going, passing small temples and nunneries. Thecablecarridetakes15minuteseachway. Notethatthere’sstilla1kmwalkupflightsof stairs even if you take the cable car!

The summit is slightly damp, with incense-likemistshroudingthearea.Within the faded Tiāntái Temple ( ; Tiāntái Sì) on Tiāntái Peak, a statue of the Dizang Buddha is seated within the Dìzàng Hall (Dìzàng Diàn), while from the magnificent 10,000 Buddha Hall (Wànfó Lóu) above, a huge enthroned statue of the Dizang Buddha gazes at the breathless masses appearing at his feet. Note the beams above your head that glitter with rows of thousands of Buddhas.

There’s another trail to your right before the main stairs to the Tiāntái Temple. This one leads you to one of the highest and quietest points of the mountain, Shíwáng Peak ( ; Shíwáng Fēng; 1344m), where you can stop and let the rolling fog sweep past you.

An easier route is to take a bus (return trip included with the ¥50 bus ticket) from Jiǔhuájiē village up to the Phoenix Pine area ( ; Fènghuáng Sōng) to take the cable car. You can also walk to the summit in two hours from here. The bus option does not pass Bǎisuì Gōng.

4Sleeping & Eating

There are a large number of hotels in Jiǔhuájiē village along Furong Lu. Outside ofmajorholidayperiods,mostdormbedsgo for ¥30, while basic twins can be had from ¥80. Prices often double during weekends and public holidays. Cheap guesthouses can be found along Jiuhua Lao Jie.

There are numerous restaurants in the village around the main square and along Furong Lu and Huacheng Lu, which serve localdishes(from¥10to¥100).TheZhīyuán Temple serves good ¥8 vegetarian meals (5.30am, 10.40am and 4.40pm). Food is

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plentiful on the way up; stop at one of the reasonable restaurants near the Phoenix Pine (about halfway up). Food costs rise the higher you climb.

( ;BǎisuìgōngXiàyuàn;%2833118;dm ¥30,d¥200-240,tr¥260-300;a) Pleasantly arranged around an old temple, this hotel has the right atmosphere and a good location. Standard rooms are just that – lino floors, small showers, but comfortable enough. The dorms (common shower) are appropriately priced. It’s right beside JùlóngHotel.

8 Information

Bank of China ( ; Zhōngguó Yínháng; 65 Huacheng Lu; h9am-5pm) Foreign exchange and 24-hour international ATM. West of the main square.

China Post ( ; Zhōngguó Yóuzhèng; 58 Huacheng Lu; h8am-5.30pm) Off the main square.

Jiǔhuáshān Red Cross Hospital (; Jiǔhuáshān Hóngshízì Yīyuàn; %283 1330) After the pond on Baima Xincun.

8 Getting There & Away

BusesfromtheJiǔhuáshānxīnqūzhàn()–thebusterminusandmainJiǔhuá Shānticketoffice–runto/fromthefollowing destinations:

Héféi ¥75, 3½ hours, 10 daily

Huángshān ¥50, three hours, one daily (7am)

Nánjīng ¥75, three hours, four daily (6.20am, 7.20am, 8.40am and 1pm)

Qīngyáng ¥7, 30 minutes, frequent services (6.30am to 5pm)

Shànghǎi ¥115, six hours, two daily (7am and 2pm)

Tónglíng ¥21, one hour, two daily (10am and 12.40pm)

Túnxī ¥60, 3½ hours, one daily (7am) Wǔhàn ¥129, six hours, one daily (7am)

Morefrequentbusesleavefromnearby Qīngyáng:

Hángzhōu ¥85, five hours, hourly Héféi ¥70, two to three hours, hourly

Huángshān ¥55, three hours, three daily (7.30am, 9.30am and 2pm)

Nánjīng ¥70, three hours, hourly Shànghǎi ¥110, six hours, hourly

Túnxī¥60,twohours,twodaily(7.30amand2pm)

Yīxiàn ¥60, 2½ hours, two daily (8.30am and 1.30pm)

8 Getting Around

The¥50shuttleticketincludesfourbusrides: fromthemainticketofficetoJiǔhuájiēvillage (baseforthemountainascent),fromthevillage toPhoenixPine(cablecarstation)andbackto thevillage,andfromthevillagebacktothemain ticketoffice(firstbus6am,lastbus5pm).

TogettoPhoenixPine,catchthebus(every30 minutesorwhenfull)fromthebusstationnorth ofthemaingate(crossthebridgeontheright aftertheJùlóngHotel).Onbusydays,youmay needtoqueueformorethantwohoursforthe cablecarto/fromthepeak.

Héféi

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The provincial capital, Héféi is a pleasant and friendly city with lively markets, pleasant lakes and parks but few other attractions. It’s better used as a transport hub to the rest of Ānhuī.