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TOP ATTRACTIONS IN CHELSEA AND THE MEATPACKING DISTRICT

Chelsea Hotel.

The shabby aura of the hotel is part of its bohemian allure. This 12-story Queen Anne–style neighborhood landmark (1884) became a hotel in 1905, although it has always catered to long-term tenants with a tradition of broadmindedness and creativity. Its literary roll call of live-ins is legendary: Mark Twain, Eugene O’Neill, O. Henry, Thomas Wolfe, Tennessee Williams, Vladimir Nabokov, Mary McCarthy, Brendan Behan, Arthur Miller, Dylan Thomas, and William S. Burroughs. In 1966 Andy Warhol filmed a group of fellow artists in eight rooms; the footage was included in The Chelsea Girls (1967). The hotel was also seen on-screen in I Shot Andy Warhol (1996) and in Sid and Nancy (1986), a dramatization of the real-life murder of Nancy Spungen, stabbed to death here by her Sex

Pistols bassist boyfriend Sid Vicious. Read the commemorative plaques outside, then check out the eclectic collection of art in the lobby, some rumored to have been donated in lieu of rent. | 222 W. 23rd St., between 7th and 8th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/243–3700 | www.hotelchelsea.com | Subway: 1, 2, C, E to 23rd St.

Fodor’s Choice | Chelsea Market.

In the former Nabisco plant, where the first Oreos were baked in 1912, nearly two-dozen food wholesalers flank what is possibly the city’s longest interior walkway in a single building—from 9th to 10th avenues. Snack your way from one end to the other, nibbling Fat Witch brownies, Ronnybrook farmer’s cheese, and Amy’s Bread sourdough, or just watch the bread being made as it perfumes the halls. If it’s a meal you’re after, Friedman’s Lunch is a standout for its excellent, well-priced food. The market’s funky industrial design—a tangle of glass and metal creates the awning and art, artifacts, and a factory pipe converted into an indoor waterfall—complements the eclectic assortment of bakers, butchers, grocers, and cafés inside. | 75 9th Ave., between W. 15th and W. 16th Sts., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/243–6005 | www.chelseamarket.com | Mon.–Sat. 7– 10, Sun. 8–8 | Subway: A, C, E, L to 14th St.

Chelsea Piers.

This sports-and-entertainment complex along the Hudson River between 17th and 23rd streets (entrance on 23rd), a phenomenal example of adaptive reuse, is the size of four 80-story buildings lying flat. There’s pretty much every kind of sports activity going on inside and out, from golf to iceskating, rock climbing, soccer, bowling, gymnastics, and basketball. Plus there’s a spa, elite sport-specific training, film studios, and a brewery. It’s the jumping-off point for some of the city’s varied water tours and dinner cruises. Trips on the river via private yacht can be arranged by

Surfside 3 Marinemax Marina (212/336–7873). Lunch cruises, dinner cruises, and cabaret sails can be reserved on Bateaux NewYork or Spirit of NewYork, which both leave from Pier 62 (866/211–3805). Sophisticated themed cruises on the retro-designed schooner Adirondack, and the yacht Manhattan leave from Pier 62 through Classic Harbor Line (646/336–5270). | Piers 59–62 on Hudson River from 17th to 23rd Sts.; entrance at 23rd St., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/336–6666 | www.chelseapiers.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

DID YOU KNOW?: The Titanic was scheduled to arrive at Chelsea Piers on April 16, 1912. Fate intervened and the “unsinkable” ship struck an iceberg on April 14 and went down. Of the 2,200 passengers aboard, 675 were rescued by the Cunard liner Carpathia, which arrived at Chelsea Piers eight days later. Check out Chelsea Piers’ historical photos on the wall between piers 60 and 61.

Cushman Row.

Built in 1840, this string of homes between 9th and 10th avenues represents some of the country’s most perfect examples of Greek Revival row houses. Original details include small wreath-encircled attic windows, deeply recessed doorways with brownstone frames, and striking iron balustrades and fences. Note the pineapples, a traditional symbol of welcome, on top of the black iron newels in front of No. 416. | 406–418 W. 20th St., between 9th and 10th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Fodor’s Choice | The High Line.

Once a 1.5-mi elevated railroad track carrying freight trains, this space is now being transformed into Manhattan’s newest green retreat in the spirit of Paris’s Promenade Plantée. A long “walking park” with benches, public art installations, and views of the Hudson River and the Manhattan skyline, the High Line is set above the streets in West Chelsea and the West Village. Reclining chaise longues that roll along the track give it a playful air. The first section between Gansevoort and West 20th streets opened in 2009, and at this writing the second section was slated for a spring 2011 opening; doubling the length of the park by extending it up to West 30th Street, with scattered access points. The final section of the High Line, between West 30th and West 34th streets at the West Side Rail Yards, is privately owned and has not yet been secured for park use. Future plans include water features, children’s attractions, viewing platforms, sundecks, and performance areas. Check the Web site for announcements and openings. | 10th Ave. from Gansevoort St. to 30th St., Meatpacking District | 10011 | www.thehighline.org | Subway: L to 8th Ave.; 1, 2, 3 to 14th St. and 7th Ave.; A, C, E to 14th St. and 8th Ave.

GALLERIES IN CHELSEA

CHELSEA GALLERIES 101

Good art, bad art, edgy art, downright disturbing art—it’s all here waiting to please and provoke in the contemporary art capital of the world. For the uninitiated, the concentration of nearly 300 galleries within a seven-block radius can be overwhelming, and the sometimes cool receptions upon entering and deafening silence, intimidating. Art galleries are not exactly famous for their customer-service skills, but they’re free, and you don’t need a degree in art

appreciation to stare at a canvas or any installation.

There’s no required code of conduct, although most galleries are library-quiet and cell phones are seriously frowned upon. Don’t worry, you won’t be pressured to buy anything; staff will probably be doing their best to ignore you.

Galleries are generally open Tuesday through Saturday from 10 am to 6 pm. Gallery-hop on a Saturday afternoon— the highest-traffic day—if you want company. You can usually find a binder with the artist’s résumé, examples of previous work, and exhibit details (usually including prices) at the front desk. If not, ask. Also ask whether there’s information you can take with you.

You can’t see everything in one afternoon, so if you have specific interests, plan ahead. Find gallery information and current exhibit details by checking the listings in the weekend section of The NewYork Times. Learn more about the galleries and the genres and artists they represent at | www.artincontext.org.

GALLERIES

Alan Klotz Gallery.

Fine 19thand 20th-century and contemporary photography is the focus of the exhibitions here. Shows range from the modern photo-realistic domestic scenes by Melissa Ann Pinney to the more playful portraits of photojournalist Jonathan Torgovnik. Also here are extensive collections from some of history’s most important photographers, including Josef Sudek, Berenice Abbott, and Eugene de Salignac. | 511 W. 25th St., Suite 701, between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10001 | 212/741–4764 | www.klotzgallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Andrea Rosen.

The gallery showcases artists on the cutting edge, such as sculptor Andrea Zittel, Felix Gonzalez-Torres, and painter and installation artist Matthew Ritchie. | 525 W. 24th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/627– 6000 | www.andrearosengallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

ATM Gallery.

On an industrial cobblestone block just off the West Side Highway, this gallery is now in a larger space. Eleven artists, six from Japan, are represented here in a gallery that began in the East Village in 2002. | 621 W. 27th St., between 11th and 12th Aves., Chelsea | 10001 | 212/375– 0349 | www.atmgallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Casey Kaplan.

Founded in 1995, this gallery represents 17 contemporary artists from Europe and the Americas. Casey Kaplan showcases sophisticated and ambitious exhibitions of works by such artists as Henning Bohl, Matthew Brannon, Johannes Wohnseifer, and Julia Schmidt. | 525 W. 21st St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/645– 7335 | www.caseykaplangallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Cheim & Read.

This prestigious gallery represents artists such as Louise Bourgeois, William Eggleston, Joan Mitchell, Jenny Holzer, Donald Baechler, and Jack Pierson. | 547 W. 25th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10001 | 212/242– 7727 | www.cheimread.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

David Zwirner.

Proving his finger is on the pulse of contemporary art, Zwirner shows works in all mediums by such emerging artists as Luc Tuymans, Stan Douglas, Thomas Ruff, Diana Thater, and Yutaka Sone. | 525 W. 19th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/727–2070 | www.davidzwirner.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Gagosian.

This enterprising modern gallery has two large Chelsea branches and a third on the Upper East Side, one in Beverly Hills, plus one in London. All present works by heavy hitters, such as sculptor Richard Serra, the late popart icon Roy Lichtenstein, and Willem de Kooning. | 555 W. 24th St., at 11th Ave., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/741–1111 | 522 W. 21st St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/741–1717 | www.gagosian.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Galerie Lelong.

This large gallery presents challenging installations and art, as well as many Latin American artists. Look for Alfredo Jaar, Andy Goldsworthy, Cildo Meireles, Ana Mendieta, Hélio Oiticica, Sean Scully, and Petah Coyne. | 528 W. 26th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10001 | 212/315–0470 | www.galerielelong.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Gladstone Gallery.

The international roster of artists in this gallery’s two locations includes sculptor Anish Kapoor, photographer Sharon Lockhart, and multimedia artists Matthew Barney and Richard Prince. | 515 W. 24th St., between 10th and

11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/206–9300 | 530 W. 21st St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/206–7606 | www.gladstonegallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Jack Shainman.

Both emerging and established artists are shown here, such as Subodh Gupta, a young sculptor from India, and Kerry James Marshall, who deals with African-American issues. You might find works by Phil Frost, whose imagery is derived from graffiti, or Zwelethu Mthethwa, a South African photographer. | 513 W. 20th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/645–1701 | www.jackshainman.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Luhring Augustine.

Since 1985 owners Lawrence Luhring and Roland Augustine have worked with established and emerging artists from Europe, Japan, and America. | 531 W. 24th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/206– 9100 | www.luhringaugustine.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Marlborough.

With galleries in London, Monaco, and Madrid, the Marlborough empire also operates two of the largest and most influential galleries in New York City. The Chelsea location (the other’s in Midtown) shows the latest work of modern artists, with a special interest in sculptural forms, such as the large-scale work of Michele Oka Doner. Red Grooms, Richard Estes, and Fernando Botero are just a few of the 20th-century luminaries represented. | 545 W. 25th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10001 | 212/463–8634 | www.marlboroughgallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Mary Boone.

It was once a hot gallery in SoHo during the 1980s, but this venue now resides both in Midtown and in the newer flash point of Chelsea. Boone continues to show established artists such as Barbara Kruger and Eric Fischl, as well as newcomers. | 541 W. 24th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/752–2929 | www.maryboonegallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Matthew Marks.

A white-hot venue for both the New York and international art crowd, openings at any of the three Matthew Marks galleries are always an interesting scene. Swiss artist Ugo Rondinone made his U.S. debut here, as did Andreas Gursky. Nan Goldin, Ellsworth Kelly, Brice Marden, Katharina Fritsch, and a cast of illustrious others also show here. | 523 W. 24th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/243–0200 | Subway: C, E to 23rd St. | 522 W. 22nd St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/243–0200 | Subway: C, E to 23rd St. | 526 W. 22nd St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/243–0200 | www.matthewmarks.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St..

Nancy Hoffman.

Contemporary painting, sculpture, drawing, photography, and video works by an impressive array of international artists are on display here. Gallery artists range from Viola Frey, known for her heroic-scale ceramic male and female figures, to other well-established artists such as Don Eddy and Joseph Raffael, to a strong group of young artists embarking on their first solo shows. | 520 W. 27th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10001 | 212/966– 6676 | www.nancyhoffmangallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Metro Pictures.

The hottest talents in contemporary art shown here include Cindy Sherman, whose provocative photographs have brought her international prominence. | 519 W. 24th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/206– 7100 | www.metropicturesgallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

The Pace Gallery.

The Midtown specialist in 20thand 21st-century art now has two spaces in Chelsea. The West 25th Street location can fit the largest sculpture and installations. Their roster concentrates on upper-echelon artists, sculptors, and photographers, including Elizabeth Murray, Chuck Close, Sol LeWitt, and Robert Rauschenberg. | 534 W. 25th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10001 | 212/929– 7000 | Subway: C, E to 23rd St. | 545 W. 22nd St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/989–4258 | www.pacewildenstein.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St..

Paula Cooper.

SoHo pioneer Paula Cooper moved to Chelsea in 1996, and enlisted architect Richard Gluckman to transform a warehouse into a dramatic space with tall ceilings and handsome skylights. Now she has three galleries that showcase the minimalist sculptures of Carl André, among other works. | 534 W. 21st St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/255–1105 C, E to 23rd St. | 521 W. 21st St., 2nd fl., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/255–5247 | www.paulacoopergallery.com | Subway: | Subway: C, E to

23rd St. | 465 W. 23rd St., at 10th Ave., Chelsea | 212/255–4499 | Subway: C, E to 23rd St..

Postmasters.

Postmasters shows new and established conceptual artists, with one room devoted to multimedia shows. Recent exhibits have included Claude Wampler’s Pomerania—a series of photographs, sculptures, video, and drawings examining the artist’s relationship with her pet Pomeranian. | 459 W. 19th St., between 9th and 10th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/727–3323 | www.postmastersart.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Robert Miller.

Miller, a titan of the New York art world, represents some of the biggest names in modern painting and photography, including Diane Arbus and the estates of Lee Krasner and Alice Neel. | 524 W. 26th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10001 | 212/366–4774 | www.robertmillergallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Sean Kelly.

Drop in at this large space for works by top contemporary American and European artists, including Marina Abramovic, Robert Mapplethorpe, Antony Gormley, Joseph Kosuth, and James Casebere. | 528 W. 29th St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10001 | 212/239–1181 | www.skny.com | Subway: 1 to 28th St.; C, E to 23rd St.

Sonnabend.

This pioneer of the SoHo art scene continues to show important contemporary artists in its Chelsea space, including Jeff Koons, Ashley Bickerton, and British art duo Gilbert & George. | 536 W. 22nd St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/627–1018 | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

Tanya Bonakdar.

This gallery presents such contemporary artists as Uta Barth, whose blurry photos challenge ideas about perception, and Ernesto Neto, a Brazilian artist who has made stunning room-size installations of large nylon sacks filled with spices. | 521 W. 21st St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/414–4144 | www.tanyabonakdargallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

303.

International cutting-edge artists shown here include photographer Doug Aitken and installation artists Karen Kilimnik, and Jane and Louise Wilson. 303 is closed in August and weekends between July 5 and Labor Day. | 547 W. 21st St., between 10th and 11th Aves., Chelsea | 10011 | 212/255–1121 | www.303gallery.com | Subway: C, E to 23rd St.

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Planning | Top Touring Experiences | Top Attractions | Worth Noting

Updated by Jacinta O’Halloran

The neighborhood defined as Union Square refers to the few blocks that surround Union Square Park, which lies between 14th and 17th streets and Broadway and Park Avenue South. If visiting on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, or Saturday, don’t miss one of the best things this hood has to offer—the Union Square Greenmarket.

But don’t despair if it’s a nonmarket day. Union Square regularly has vendors of all kinds, selling everything from art to jewelry to T-shirts. New York University students, nannies with their charges, visitors, and locals alike all gather in this open space that can at times feel more like an outdoor version of Grand Central Station than a park.

The Flatiron District—anchored by Madison Square Park on the north and Union Square to the south—is one of the city’s busiest neighborhoods, particularly along 5th Avenue and Park Avenue South. In some ways it should still be called Ladies’ Mile: the area is a favorite for spotting models because of the number of agencies and photography studios here. Fine chain stores are mixed with local boutiques, and some of the city’s coolest hotels and trendiest restaurants. To top it off, the elegant turn-of-the- 20th-century skyline that hovers above is magical and brilliantly lighted at night.

The haste and hullabaloo of the city calms considerably once you reach the more residential neighborhoods of

Gramercy Park and Murray Hill to the east.

Dignified Gramercy Park, named for its 1831 gated garden square ringed by historic buildings and private clubs, is an early example of the city’s best creative urban planning. Even though you can’t unpack your picnic in the exclusive residents-only park, pick a spot on the sidewalk in front of the cast-iron gate and gaze upward to take in the beautiful Greek Revival, Italianate, Gothic Revival, and Victorian Gothic buildings that flank its sides. Off its southern edge is Irving Place, a short street honoring Washington Irving, where there’s one of the city’s most charming inns, the Inn at Irving Place, and a number of casual restaurants. Just

north of the park is Ian Schrager’s cooler-than-cool reincarnation of the Gramercy Park Hotel on Lexington Avenue.

Murray Hill stretches from 30th to 40th streets between 5th and 3rd avenues and is a mix of high rises, restaurants and bars filled mostly with a post-college crowd, and the small but solid enclave of Little India, where you can sample authentic cuisine and shop for traditional clothing and other goods in a handful of boutiques. Farther north a few side streets are tree-lined and town-house-filled with some highprofile haunts, including the Morgan Library and Museum with its vast book stacks and rare manuscripts. But perhaps the biggest reason to visit this neighborhood is to see New York’s biggest skyscraper, the Empire State Building.

PLANNING

MAKING THE MOST OF YOUR TIME

If you’re planning to visit the Empire State Building, try to do so either early or late in the day—morning is the least crowded time, and late at night the city lights are dazzling. Allow at least two hours for your visit if you plan to visit the observation deck. Then, you can stroll at your ease from the Empire State Building to Union Square (about 20 blocks), taking in Madison Square Park, the Flatiron Building, and Gramercy Park along the way. Note: Union Square is at its liveliest on market days—Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday.

GETTING HERE AND AROUND

Both Union Square/14th Street and Herald Square/34th Street are major subway hubs, connected by the N, Q, and R lines. Any of these trains can bring you right to the center of the action. For Madison Square Park, take the local R to 23rd Street. You can reach the Empire State Building via the B, D, F, N, Q, R, or M line to 34th Street or the 6 to 33rd Street. The 6 also stops at 23rd, 28th, and 33rd streets.

FODOR’S CHOICE

Empire State Building

Gramercy Park

Union Square Park and Greenmarket

TOP EXPERIENCES

Taking in Union Square Park and Greenmarket Browsing the piles of books in The Strand

Viewing the rare manuscripts at the Morgan Library Soaking in the history and elegance of Gramercy Park

Picnicking in Madison Square Park with goodies from Shake Shack or Eataly

Dining with locals in Koreatown

Shopping on lower 5th Avenue

TOP TOURING EXPERIENCES

A WELL-ROUNDED NEIGHBORHOOD WALK

The energy of Union Square reaches its peak during its Greenmarket days, when more than 25 farms and food purveyors set up shop on the square’s north and west sides to peddle everything from produce to meat, fresh fish to baked goods. The market is a great place to rub elbows with—and get elbowed by—local shoppers and chefs and a great source for tasty souvenirs (locally produced honeys, jams, and cheeses) as well as lunch.

Take your loot to a bench in the park and take in the scene. It was here, on September 5, 1882, that Labor Day was born, when more than 10,000 New York City union workers took an unpaid day off to march from City Hall to Union Square.

Head northeast to Irving Place (the stretch between East 14th and East 20th streets) for a trip back in time. It feels calm, green, and exclusive, and has a combination of old and new eateries, stores, and architecture. Pete’s Tavern, residing on Irving Place since 1864, maintains its claim as the oldest original bar in the city and its reputation as a neighborhood hangout. Two famous writers, O. Henry (Gift of the Magi) and Ludwig Bemelmans (Madeline), were “inspired” here, probably from the amazing eggnog or Pete’s House Ale.

At the top of Irving Place sits serene, look-but-don’t touch Gramercy Park. The park oozes urbane theatrical and artistic ambience, surrounded by the tony likes of the Players Club (technically just called “The Players”) and the National Arts Club, both established to indulge and encourage a passion for the arts. Only residents living in buildings immediately surrounding the park have keys to

get in, as do guests of the Gramercy Park Hotel.

Heading north, walk along less touristy Park Avenue South, looking west all the while for glimpses of Madison Square Park, and, if its time for a break, get on line to sample what many call the city’s best burger and shakes at the everpopular Shake Shack inside the park. Afterward, stroll over to Lexington Avenue and away from the magnetic pull of the Empire State Building to Sniffen Court, a gated cul- de-sac two blocks away from the Morgan Library. These 10 brick Romanesque Revival carriage houses were built in 1863–64 on a small court perpendicular to East 36th Street, and are a peaceful spot to end before tackling frenetic Midtown.

ARCHITECTURE AT ITS MOST

ELABORATE

Rimming Madison Square Park is a slice of Manhattan’s most impressive skyline. In the northeast corner, the goldtop New York Life Insurance building was the tallest in the city when it opened in 1903. The elaborately carved Beaux-Arts structure one block down at East 25th Street is the Appellate Division, New York State Supreme Court, with its main entrance tucked onto the side street.

Towering over the park between East 23rd and 24th streets is another classically inspired spire, the Metropolitan Life Insurance Tower, which has a stunning clock face keeping time of all four sides.

One of the buildings most emblematic of New York City, the Flatiron Building, is a limestone-and-terra-cotta vessel sailing its prowlike shape uptown from its berth on 23rd Street.

At the edge of Murray Hill, at between 33rd and 34th streets and 5th and 6th avenues, looms the inimitable Empire State Building. Canonized in postcards, books, and on film, the building majestically reaches toward the sky, which colorfully illuminates the night sky according to an elaborate calendar. For an excellent view of it, head one block north on 5th Avenue to the steps of the Italian-Renaissance-style B. Altman Building, worth a look in its own right.

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TOP ATTRACTIONS

Fodor’s Choice | Empire State Building.

Bittersweet though it is, this landmark is once again the city’s tallest building. Its pencil-slim silhouette, recognizable virtually worldwide, is an Art Deco monument to progress, a symbol for New York City, and a star in some great romantic scenes, onand off-screen. Its cinematic résumé —the building has appeared in more than 200 movies— means that it remains a fixture of popular imagination, and many visitors come to relive favorite movie scenes. You might just find yourself at the top of the building with Sleepless in Seattle look-alikes or even the building’s own King Kong impersonator.

Built in 1931 at the peak of the skyscraper craze, this 103story limestone giant opened after a mere 13 months of construction. The framework rose at an astonishing rate of