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2011 rhb final revised 02-11-2011

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(4)Ensure you remove horizontal lift straps if the stretcher is to be dragged to prevent damage to the straps. k. Rigging For Vertical Lift.

(1)Create a fixed loop in the middle of the rope by tying a double figure knot.

(2)Pass tails through grommet on either side of the head and snug knot against stretcher.

(3)Feed ropes through grommets along the sides, pass through the handles and through the grommets at the foot

end of the stretcher and secure with a square knot.

(4)Route the pigtails through the lower carrying handles outside to in, and secure ends with a square knot with two overhand safeties.

l.Ascending Vertical Terrain with a Casualty.

(1)Package a casualty in a stretcher for carrying and dragging

(2)Package a casualty in a stretcher for helicopter evacuation horizontally and vertically

(3)Task organization for a platoon for moving a casualty (carrying squad, security squads, machine guns, and key leaders). Emphasize that the PL focuses on the entire tactical situation and controlling the platoon and having a

rotation of the carrying squad if they have to move the casualty over long distances. The PSG focuses on controlling the CASEVAC.

(4)Establish the primary anchor (sling rope and 2 opposite and opposed carabiners) and the secondary anchor for the 6 to 8 wrap Prusik safety.

(5)Having teams moving ahead to set up anchors to expedite moving the casualty up multiple pitches m. Descending Vertical Terrain with a Casualty.

(1)Lower the casualty on a Munter Hitch with a 6 to 8 wrap Prusik safety

(2)Everyone else uses a retrievable rappel with the hasty or body rappel to descend

(3)Have teams move down and establish anchors to expedite the lowering if you have multiple pitches

9 5. MOUNTAINEERING EQUIPMENT. Mountaineering equipment refers to all the parts and pieces that allow the trained Ranger to accomplish many tasks in the mountains. The importance of this gear to the mountaineer is no less than that of the rifle to the infantryman.

a. Ropes and Cords. Ropes and cords are the most important pieces of mountaineering equipment. They secure climbers and equipment on steep ascents and descents. They are also used to install rope and hauling equipment. From WWII until the 1980’s, the US military mostly used 7/16-inch nylon laid rope, often referred to as green line for all mountaineering operations. Since the introduction of kernmantle ropes, ropes designed for more specific purposes are replacing the old all –purpose green line. Kernmantle ropes are constructed similar to parachute cord. It consists of a smooth sheath, surrounding a braided or woven core. Laid ropes are still in use today however, should never be used in situations where rope failure could result in injury or loss of equipment. There are two classifications of kernmantle ropes; static and dynamic.

(1) Dynamic Ropes. Ropes used for climbing are classified as dynamic ropes. These rope stretch or elongate 8 to 12 percent once subjected to weight or impact. This stretching is critical in reducing the impact force on the climber, anchors, and/or belayer during a fall by softening the catch. 11mm X 150m is generally considered the standard for military use however more specialized ropes in different length and diameters are available.

(2) Static Ropes. Static ropes are used in situations where rope stretch is undesired, and when the rope is subjected to heavy static weight. Static ropes should never be used while climbing, since even a fall of a few feet could generate enough impact force to injure climber and belayer, and/or cause anchor failure. Static ropes are usually used when constructing rope bridges, fixed rope installations, vertical haul lines, and so on.

(3) Sling Ropes and Cordelettes. A short section of static rope or static cord is called a “sling rope” or “cordelette.” These are critical pieces of personal equipment in mountaineering operations. Diameter usual ly ranges from 7mm to 8mm, and up to 21 feet long. 8mm X 15 feet is the minimum Ranger standard.

(4) Care of Rope. Rope that is used daily should be used no longer than one year. Occasionally used rope can be used generally up to five years if properly cared for.

Inspect ropes thoroughly before, during and after use for cuts, frays, abrasions, mildew, and soft or worn spots.

Never step on a rope or drag it on the ground unnecessarily.

Avoid running rope over sharp or rough edges (pad if necessary).

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Keep ropes away from oil, acids and other corrosive substances.

Avoid running ropes across one another under tension (nylon to nylon contact will damage ropes).

Do not leave ropes knotted or under tension longer than necessary.

Clean in cool water, loosely coil and hang to dry out of direct sunlight. Ultraviolet light rays harm synthetic fibers. When wet, hang rope to drip dry on a rounded wooden peg, at room temperature (do not apply heat).

(5)Webbing and Slings. Loops of tubular webbing or cord, called slings or runners, are the simplest pieces of equipment and some of the most useful. The uses for these simple pieces are endless, and they are a critical link

between the climber, the rope, carabiners, and anchors. Runners are predominately made from either 9/16 inch or 1 inch tubular webbing and are either tied or sewn by a manufacturer.

b. Carabiners. The carabiner is one of the most versatile pieces of equipment available in the mountains. This simple piece of gear is the critical connection between the climber, his rope, and the protection attaching him to the mountain. Carabiners must be strong enough to hold hard falls, yet light enough for the climber to easily carry a quantity of them. Today's high tech metal alloys allow carabiners to meet both of these requirements. Steel carabiners are still widely used in the military but are being replaced by lighter and stronger materials. Basic carabiner construction affords the user several different shapes.

c. Protection. Protection is the generic term used to describe a piece of equipment (natural or artificial) that is used to construct an anchor. Protection is used with a climber, belayer, and climbing rope to form the lifeline of the climbing team. The rope connects two climbers, and the protection connects them to the rock or to ice. Figure 9-1 shows removable artificial protection, and Figure 9-2 shows fixed (usually permanent) artificial protection.

Figure 9-1. EXAMPLES OF TRADITIONAL (REMOVABLE) PROTECTION USED ON ROCK

Figure 9-2. EXAMPLES OF FIXED (PERMANENT/SEMIPERMANENT) PROTECTION USED ON ROCK

9-6. ANCHORS. Anchors are the base, for all installations and roped mountaineering techniques. Anchors must be strong enough to support the entire weight of the load or impact placed upon them. Several pieces of artificial or natural protection may be incorporated together to make one multi point anchor. Anchors are classified as Artificial or Natural.

a.Artificial Anchors. Artificial anchors are constructed using all manmade material. The most common anchors incorporate traditional or fixed protection (Figure 9-3).

b.Natural Anchors. Natural anchors are usually very strong and often simple to construct using minimal equipment.

Trees, shrubs and boulders are the most common. All natural anchors simply require a method of attaching a rope. Regardless of the type of natural anchor used, the anchor must be strong enough to support the entire weight of the load.

(1)Trees. These are probably the most widely used of all anchors. In rocky terrain, trees usually have a very shallow root system. Check this by pushing or tugging on the tree to see how well it is rooted. Anchor as low as possible to prevent excess leverage on the tree. Use padding on soft, sap producing trees to keep sap off ropes and slings.

(2)Rock Projections and Boulders. You can use these, but they must be heavy enough, and have a stable enough base to support the load.

(3)Bushes and Shrubs. If no other suitable anchor is available, route a rope around the bases of several bushes. As with trees, place the anchoring rope as low as possible to reduce leverage on the anchor. Make sure all vegetation is healthy and well rooted to the ground.

(4)Tensionless Anchor. This is used to anchor rope on high load installations such as bridging. The wraps of the rope around the anchor (Figure 9-4) absorb the tension of the installation and keep the tension off the knot and

carabiner. Tie it with a minimum of four wraps around the anchor; however a smooth anchor (small tree, pipe, or rail) may require several more wraps. Wrap the rope from top to bottom. Place a fixed loop into the end of the rope and attached loosely back onto the rope with a carabiner.

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Figure 9-3. CONSTRUCTING A 3 POINT, PRE EQUALIZED ANCHOR USING FIXED ARTIFICIAL PROTECTION

Figure 9-4. TENSIONLESS NATURAL ANCHOR

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9- 7. KNOTS

a. Square Knot. This joins two ropes of equal diameter (Figure 9-5): Two interlocking bites, running ends exit on same side of standing portion of rope. Each tail is secured with an overhand knot on the standing end. When you dress the knot, leave at least a 4 inch tail on the working end.

Figure 9-5. SQUARE KNOT

b. Round Turn with Two Half Hitches. This is a constant tension anchor knot (Figure 9-6). The rope forms a complete turn around the anchor point (thus the name “round turn”), with both ropes parallel and touching, but not crossing. Both half hitches are tightly dressed against the round turn, with the locking bar on top. When you dress the knot, leave at least a 4 inch tail on the working end.

Figure 9-6. ROUND TURN WITH TWO HALF HITCHES

c. End–of–the–Rope Clove Hitch. This is an intermediate anchor knot (Figure 9-7) that requires constant tension. Make two turns around the anchor (1). A locking bar runs diagonally from one side to the other. Leave no more than one rope width between turns of rope (2). Locking bar is opposite direction of pull. When you dress the knot, leave at least a 4 -inch tail on the working end.

Figure 9-7. END–OF–THE–ROPE CLOVE HITCH

d. Middle–of–the–Rope Clove Hitch. This knot (Figure 9-8) secures the middle of a rope to an anchor. The knot forms two turns around the anchor (1, 2). A locking bar runs diagonally from one side to the other. Leave no more than one rope width between turns (3). Ensure the locking bar is opposite the direction o f pull.

Figure 9-8. MIDDLE–OF–THE–ROPE CLOVE HITCH

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e. Rappel Seat. The rappel seat (Figure 9-9) is a rope harness used in rappelling and climbing. It can be tied for use with the left or right hand (1). Leg straps do not cross, and are centered on buttocks and tight (2). Leg straps form locking half hitches on rope around waist. Square knot properly tied on right hip (3) and finished with two overhand knots. Tails must be even, within 6 inches (4). Carabiner properly inserted around all ropes with opening gate opening up and away (5). Carabiner will not come i n contact with square knot or overhand knot. Rappel seat is tight enough not to allow a fist to be inserted between the rappeller’s body and the harness.

Figure 9-9. RAPPEL SEAT

f. Double Figure 8. Use a Figure 8 loop knot (Figure 9-10) to form a fixed loop in the end of the rope. It can be tied at the end of the rope or anywhere along the length of the rope. Figure 8 loop knots are formed by two ropes parallel to each other in the shape of a Figure 8, no twists are in the Figure 8. Fixed loops are large enough to insert a carabiner. When you dress the knot, leave at least a 4 inch tail on the working end.

Figure 9-10. DOUBLE FIGURE 8 LOOP KNOT

g. Rerouted Figure 8 Knot. This anchor knot also attaches a climber to a climbing rope. Form a Figure 8 in the rope, and pass the working end around an anchor. Reroute the end back through to form a double Figure 8 (Figure 9-11). Tie the knot with no twists. When you dress the knot, leave at least a 4 inch tail on the working end.

Figure 9-11. REROUTED FIGURE 8 KNOT

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h. Figure 8 Slip Knot. The Figure 8 slip is used to form an adjustable bight in the middle of a rope. Knot is in the shape of a Figure 8. Both ropes of the bight pass through the same loop of the Figure 8. The bight is adjustable by means of a sliding section

(Figure 9-12).

Figure 9-12. FIGURE 8 SLIP KNOT

i.End–of–the–Rope Prusik. This knot (Figure 9-13) attaches a movable rope to a fixed rope. The knot has two round

turns, with a locking bar perpendicular to the standing end of the rope. Tie a bow line within 6 inches of the locking bar. When you dress the knot, leave at least a 4 inch tail on the working end.

Figure 9-13. END–OF–THE–ROPE PRUSIK

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