Round Collar

Baste interfacing to wrong side of undercollar. Stitch two sections of collar, right sides together, leaving neck edge open. Trim interfacing close to stitching and grade seam allowances so that the widest seam is on me edge without the interfacing. This will keep the seam edges from pressing through to the right side. Clip small notches to seam line in outward curve. Press seam open, using the tip of the iron. Turn collar to right side. Understitch the seam allowance to the undercollar section. Press collar flat and baste around me outer edge (Fig.42).

Fig.42 Fig.43

Pointed Collar

Baste interfacing to wrong side of undercollar. Stitch two sections of collar, right sides together, leaving neck edge open. Start at neck edge, stitch to point, take one diagonal stitch at point and continue stitching. Grade seam allowances same as for round collar. Cut diagonally across points. Press seam open. If you have a point presser, slip collar over board to press seam open. Turn collar to right side and pull out the corners, using fine needle. Understitch the seam allowance to undercollar, stitching as far into the points as possible. Press collar flat and baste around the outer edge (Fig.43).

Collar and Undercollar Cut in One

Baste interfacing to wrong side of undercollar with one edge on fold line. Slip-stitch interfacing to collar on fold line. Fold collar in half, right sides together, and stitch side edges. Trim interfacing and grade scam allowances same as for round collar, trim diag­onally across points at fold edge. Turn to right side, pull out corners and press. Baste around outer edges.

It is best to attach the collar as soon as possible so that neckline does not become stretched while working on the garment. Collars are applied with a bias facing, a hack and front facing, or without a back facing.

Peter Pan Collar

This is a round flat collar, and can be one- or two-piece. It is attached to the neck edge with a bias or fitted facing(Fig.44).

Fig.44 Fig.45 Fig.46

Fig.47 Fig.48

Convertible Collar

Any collar that can be worn open or closed at the neck. It can have a seam at the outer edge, or can be cut all in one with a fold at the outer edge. It can be attached to the neck edge with or without a back facing. The back facing is used when the neckline stands away from the neck(Fig.45).

Sailor Collar

This is a wide square collar in back, and comes to a V in front. It can be applied to a V-neckline with or without a center front seam (Fig.46).

Band Collar

It is a narrow straight collar that stands up from the neck edge and stops at the center front. If the edges are together at the front of the garment the collar is Chinese in style; if they meet at the back it is Victorian, a style often used on children’s clothes, with tucks or lace. (Fig.47)

Turtle-Neck Collar

A wide true bias band stands up from the neck edge and then rolls back over the neckline seam. If the collar is stretched as it is applied to the neckline, the collar will roll higher and fit close to the neck. If the collar is eased as it is applied to the neckline, it will roll less and stand away from the neck. Baste interfacing to inside of collar with one edge along fold line. Slip-stitch interfacing to fold line. Fold collar lengthwise, right sides together and stitch ends. Trim interfacing close to stitching and grade seams; turn and press. Baste interfacing edge of collar to right side of neck edge, matching centers and notches. Stitch seam. Clip curve at intervals. Press seam toward the collar. Turn under free edge of collar and hem over neckline(Fig.48).

Exercise 1. Answer the following questions:

1. What groups do all collars fit into?

2. What will the type of interfacing depend upon?

3. How can you eliminate the need to stitch interfacing to the collar?

4. What interfacing should be used for sheer fabric?

5. What collar can be convertible?

Exercise 2. Find the English equivalents of such words from the text:

Нижній комір, бути склеєним, усувати, незначне заокруглення, кінчик утюга, тонка голка, розтягнутий, вздовж, підрублювати, суцільнокрійний.

Exercise 3. Match each word in the left-hand column with the best meaning in the right-hand column.

1. Peter Pan collar a) is a narrow straight collar that stands up from the

neck edge and stops at the center front.

2. Sailor collar b) is a round flat collar, and can be one- or two-piece.

3. Band collar c) is a wide square collar in back, and comes to a V in

front.

Exercise 4. Translate into English:

1. Комір – це, можливо, найважливіша частина любого одягу і він повинен сидіти чудово.

2. Тип прокладки залежить від конструкції коміру і матеріалу, з якого він виготовляється.

3. Комір, у якого значне заокруглення, потребує дві окремі викройки: одну – для верхньої, а другу – для нижньої частини коміру.

4. Любий комір можна носити відкритим або закритим на шиї.

5. Найкраще – прикріпити комір якомога швидше, щоб лінія шиї не розтягнулась в процесі шиття.

6. Виверніть на лицеву сторону, витягніть кути і загладьте.

Text D: Pockets

Key Words and Phrases:

Patch pocket – накладна кишеня, miter – з’єднати під кутом 45° (скіс), to be reinforced – бути підсиленим, set into a seam – розміщена в шві, lined – з підкладкою, set-in pocket – прорізна кишеня, welt pocket – кишеня з листочкою, flap pocket – кишеня з клапаном, bound pocket – кишеня “в рамку”.

Pockets are functional and often decorative as well. There are three types—the patch pocket which is stitched to the surface of the garment, the set-in pocket for which a special opening is made in the garment, and the pocket set into a seam in the garment.

Transfer the pattern markings for the exact placement of the pocket to the wrong side of the fabric. Pin-mark the pocket location and try on the garment to be sure that this is the correct and most flattering placement for your figure.