Trains in Spain

Rail network, train standards and tickets

The Spanish rail network is operated by the state-owned company Red Nacional de los Ferrocarriles Españoles (RENFE). The RENFE network takes in all major cities, although it doesn’t run to many small towns, and is supplemented by a few suburban networks such as the Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat de Catalunya city lines in Barcelona and private narrow-gauge railways.

Little freight is transported by train within Spain or to other European Union (EU) countries, compared with the tens of thousands of tonnes shipped by road.

Like most state-owned businesses in Spain, the railways were grossly under-funded under Franco and RENFE remains western Europe’s most idiosyncratic railway (many lines are still single track), despite huge investments in new rolling stock. Occasional accidents occur on Spain’s rail network, but travelling by train is usually very safe and considerably safer than travelling by car.

Spain’s railway network is well below average by European standards, particularly regarding punctuality, although it’s also one of the continent’s cheapest. However, RENFE has undergone a comprehensive modernisation programme in the last decade, during which journey times have been reduced by up to 50 per cent. There are high speed trains ( Tren de Alta Velocidad Española/AVE) from Madrid to Seville, to Toledo, to Zaragoza, to Huesca and Lleida. The AVE (which also means big bird in Spanish) employs ‘disguised’ French TGV trains running on special lines. Refunds are offered if an AVE train is late arriving at its destination.

The AVE

The AVE service is currently being extended countrywide and when the network is finished, all provincial capitals will be under four hours journey time from Madrid and all provinces under six and a half hours journey time from Barcelona. The stretches that are currently under construction are Madrid-Barcelona, Madrid-Malaga, Madrid-Segovia-Valladolid, and Madrid-Valencia. The AVE will eventually comprise part of a Europewide, high-speed rail network (unlike other Spanish trains, AVE trains run on European standard-gauge track) connecting to the French and Portuguese networks. There are three classes of AVE trains: first ( club), business ( preferente) and tourist ( turista), plus sleeping accommodation for international travel. AVE trains are air-conditioned and equipped with reclining seats, televisions (films are shown), a restaurant and cafeteria, a drinks/refreshment trolley service and, in first class, free newspapers and the AVE magazine ( Revista Paisajes).

Other first-class, long-distance ( largo recorrido) trains include the Talgo and the Talgo 200, which has first and tourist class seats and is similarly equipped to AVE trains. Talgo trains are generally slower than the AVE. The main Talgo routes are from Madrid to Malaga and from Barcelona along the Mediterranean coast.

RENFE operates a variety of trains and services, most with different fare structures, but there are generally three types of service: long-distance ( largo recorrido), medium-distance ( medio recorrido) and local or suburban ( cercanías). A variety of trains operate on the long- and medium-distance routes, and vary greatly in speed. In general, fast trains stop only at main stations, while slow trains stop at all stations. Long- and medium-distance trains usually have first and second class carriages, although there’s a bewildering variety of fares within each class and for different train types. Local and suburban trains are second/tourist class ( turista) only and stop at all stations. Despite their names, an exprés is a slow night train, usually with sleeping cars, and a rápido is a daytime version of the exprés. Night trains have various types of couchette ( literas) and bed.

Rail fares in Spain

Spanish rail fares are low by European standards, although supplements can increase fares by up to 80 per cent. Fares are graded according to a train’s speed and comfort and there are surcharges ( suplementos) on fast trains, including TER, Talgo, Intercity and ELT trains. A first class ticket costs around 50 per cent more than second/tourist class ( turista). If you aren’t in a hurry, it’s advisable to compare the cost of slow trains with fast trains, as the savings are considerable on slow trains (and they allow plenty of time to enjoy the sights).

Car trains run to all parts of Spain (e.g. you can transport your car by train from Barcelona, Bilbao or Madrid to Malaga) and include an autoexpreso, which carries cars, motorcycles, light boats and canoes, and (on some routes) a motoexpreso, carrying only motorcycles.

Further information is available from the RENFE website (http://www.renfe.es ) or from the telephone helpline ( 902-240 202), open from 5am to 11pm.

International Trains

Spain also has many international services, although they’re slow and expensive compared with air travel. There are direct trains to many western European cities (e.g. Geneva, Milan, Montpellier, Paris and Zurich) and there’s even a train from Madrid to Moscow taking around three days. International trains usually have two classes, first ( gran clase) and second/tourist ( turista), plus sleeping cars ( coches camas) with a choice of individual compartments or couchettes.

At border stops it may be necessary to change trains due to Spain’s wider gauge than the rest of Europe, except for Talgo and TEE trains which have adjustable axles. RENFE also operate a Train-hotel ( Trenhotel) service running from Madrid to Paris ( Francisco de Goya) and from Barcelona to Milan ( Salvador Dalí), to Paris ( Joan Miró) and to Zurich ( Pau Casals). Beware of thieves on overnight international trains, as there have been robberies in recent years, particularly those travelling between France and Spain.

Further information is available from the RENFE website (http://www.renfe.es) or from the telephone helpline for international enquiries (902-243 402), open from 7am to 11pm.

Tourist Trains

• Spain has a number of ‘tourist’ trains, many of which run on narrow-gauge lines. The Al-Andalus Express ( http://www.alandalusexpreso.com) is a unique travel experience on a luxurious converted ’20s train and a wonderful introduction to Spain, with the round trip commencing in Seville and taking in Cordoba, Granada and Jerez. El Transcantábrico (http://www.transcantabrico.feve.es) is another ’20s train operating between Santiago de Compostela and León in the north of Spain along the longest stretch of narrow-gauge railway in Europe.

• It takes in stunning mountain scenery and offers excursions to a number of enchanting villages and towns during its eight day journey. Although it isn’t a tourist train, one of the most spectacular train journeys in southern Spain is on the RENFE line from Ronda to Jimena de la Frontera (British built in the 1890s).

• Other trains include the independent Ferrocarrils de la Generalitat Valenciana ( FGV) narrow-gauge line operating the Costa Blanca Exprés running along the Costa Blanca from Denia to Alicante and the Limón Exprés operating between Benidorm and Gata de Gorgos. A coal-burning steam train ( Tren de la Fresa) with wooden seats runs from Madrid to Aranjuez on Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays from May to October. In Majorca, railway enthusiasts can enjoy a trip on the vintage train running from Palma to Sóller (the only other train in the Balearics runs from Palma to Inca).

It travels through tunnels and mountains and provides some of the best views on the island. From Sóller an equally ancient tramcar runs through orange and lemon groves to Puerto de Sóller. RENFE organise many day and weekend excursion trains, including ‘theme park trains’ and ‘tourist trains’ to Spain’s most historic cities – train tickets usually include entrance to the main tourist attractions or theme park and one-night’s hotel accommodation. An interesting book is Spain and Portugal by Rail by Norman Renouf (Bradt Travel Guides).